What caused you to switch from chemical engineering and sales jobs to riding around Europe and South America?

Answer: Wait, is this not a normal career progression?  Ha!  Great question–it was more of a gradual transition.  My obsession with travel started at an early age.I remember having free maps mailed to the house and studying them constantly, dreaming about what other places on earth might be like.  After college, I made the cliché solo European backpacking trip; from then on, I’ve been hooked. I came up with the concept for a completely unrelated product line in men’s fashion and made the jump to entrepreneurship after 13 years of being an employee.  Somewhere along the way, I learned for me chasing time and not necessarily money is a more important goal.

What is your process for adventure? For example, how do you pick a country, what do you bring, what is planning like, etc.?

Answer: Twenty years ago, I would camp out in bookstores and pore over their travel section for fun–I swear I would eventually buy something after creasing a few bindings. I was convinced where to go by the number of books for a particular country. Noticing there would be seven titles on Italy for every one of somewhere else, that became the first destination.Now I take tips from fellow travelers, vlogs, travel documentaries, and Google images to stir my imagination.  Since I make travel videos for fun, big visuals are key.  Glorious landscapes, grandiose architecture, and anything unique that films well lands high on the bucket list.I’ve always brought a Lonely Planet travel guide – they speak my language and suggest great itineraries for the amount of time and mileage I want to do.  Add a drone, a Sony DSLR, lenses, two wheels, and clean clothes, and that’s an adventure in the making.Planning?  I just chuckled a bit!  For this current trip the only plans made were getting my house rented and my motorcycle to London.  I was literally looking for a hostel when I landed. The fewer plans I make, the more intense the adventure.

Do you have any rules for these adventures, like completing trips at a certain time or trying to make friends everywhere you stop?

Answer: The first rule is to survive the adventure!  The second rule is to have fun, take lots of videos and meet as many locals and travelers as possible. People along the way can be the most memorable aspect, and it was actually a topic of my last travel films. Soaking up the local culture is another rule for adventure.  It’s fascinating how different life and customs can be across the world.  I would say the two combined leave the most lasting impression. Lastly, try speaking the language; my Spanish is getting pretty good for a gringo!

What’s your favorite story from your adventures, and what is one story that was a bit scary?

Answer: One of my favorites was staying at a hostel in Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua and seeing a gal I HAD to talk to.  I swore she was a local.  Turns out she thought I was German.  We chuckled after realizing we were both just boring Americans on solo trips.  Next thing you know, she’s changing her itinerary and traveling with me for two months–then we dated for almost two years!  There’s been a couple of scary moments, but one, in particular, was riding motorcycles with my brother in Colombia. We just picked up rentals in Bogota and were trying to find the downtown area where our hotel was. We asked some federal police where it was since our cell phones were dead. Pro Tip: make sure you have local SIM cards and a way to keep your phone charged from the bike. Google can be a lifesaver!  Next thing you know the police are telling us to go under this police Do Not Cross tape.  So we’re riding through a completely blocked neighborhood, and instead of seeing locals mulling around, there are heavily armed police on almost every corner of this run-down area.  Each one is motioning for us to go further into the no-go zone–the whole thing gave us Mad Max vibes.

We pull over for a sidebar, and as we’re agreeing we’re spooked, a van pulls up and about 6 men in white lab coats and masks start filing out. The two of us looked at each other, started the bikes, and hightailed out of there!  Turns out the hotel was in the complete opposite direction.  To this day we’re not sure what that was about, but we’re glad we didn’t find out.  Colombia turned out to be a phenomenal trip, though with no other dicey moments.

What’s one country or area you’d recommend for beginners to motorcycle backpacking?

Answer: I would highly recommend Mexico to anyone thinking they might want to dip their toe in.  Baja California could be the beginner trip, then graduate to ‘mainland’ Mexico. Importing a motorcycle is pretty straightforward at the border and the breadth of scenery from California/Texas down to Tulum is unbelievable.  There are so many great cities, from Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Puerto Escondido and San Miguel de Allende to the more traditional tourist areas of Playa del Carmen and the cenotes (swimming caves) in the south. The Copper Canyon in the north has some great visuals, and the ride to Batopilas is not to be missed. The culture, people, and food make for a great adventure, and the costs of hostels and budget hotels are perfect for smaller budgets.

What is your favorite place or stretch in the world to ride down so far?

Answer: I’ve seen about 60 countries so it’s tough to choose but two months ago I rode the fjords of western Norway and I don’t think that much continuous, magical scenery has wowed me in my life.  The active volcanoes in Guatemala and the Amalfi Coast, Italy, from Sorrento to Salerno are notable runner-ups.

What’s your favorite bike for overseas trips?

Answer: I’ve had GSX-R750s and Harleys from custom bikes to the Streetglide.  There’s also a KTM 500 EXC in the garage for fun in the dirt. All are great for their own purpose. It was the week after we rented BMWs in Colombia I listed my Harley for sale and bought a GS. I was convinced that’s the best for a foreign adventure–6 years later, I’m still a believer in the 1200.  Fellow riders might say it’s heavy for offroad–which it is for single track–but you cannot beat the balance and power it has for hauling serious luggage.  When the roads get rough like many parts in the world–Guatemala, Costa Rica, or any cobblestone cities come to mind–the stock suspension is plenty. Granted I’m on the smaller side, so bigger guys might need to beef theirs up. However, the brakes and rider modes give me more confidence to stay safe, and the upright position allows for thousands of comfortable miles on the tarmac–not to mention the low maintenance of the shaft drive and 6000 miles between oil changes.  I’m never worriedabout shining chrome; I’m just laying down serious mileage with a bike that goes and goes.

Why do you use Touratech products, and why would you recommend them to others?

Answer: Full disclosure, I’m now a Touratech-supported rider, so in exchange for video content, I ride with certain provided gear.  That said, I purchased ZegaPro panniers long before the arrangement was in place, in addition to many other parts over the years. For so long I would ogle the add-ons in their massive catalog and wonder what kind of adventures I could get into any time I saw their dressed-up bikes at the motorcycle tradeshows.  The quality is outstanding, and every part can take a beating.  From the wet bag I use for laundry that doubles as the perfect backrest to their inner bags that are great for custom foam inserts that protect the video gear.

The solid panniers have been crashed many times over, and they function no matter what.  They’re also lockable,which is great for security when you can’t keep your eyes on the bike.  Now I’m riding with the Companero Rambler suit, and the warmth for cold, rainy conditions of Scotland or Ireland is a must.  That weather would have ended my trip early had I not been riding with Companero Goretex, the removable inner liner, and their Rambler GTX gloves.  Proper, comfortable riding gear will make or break these trips.

As an aside, I’ve also met a handful of the Touratech team from Seattle to Germany.  These folks are riders and know their stuff from top to bottom. Innovation stems from their employees and customer input. They will also help out in a jam, as witnessed firsthand on this trip.

What are some essential supplies you need for an overseas adventure?

Answer: As mentioned, a working phone is key because most GPS’ cannot compete with the wealth of information on Google. I’m not a fanboy, but data is crucial on the road.  Most days, I’m finding campsites, hotels or hostels in the evening once it’s quitting time. I also bring my MacBook since I still need to work from the road.  For this trip, I packed a tent, air mattress, pillow, and a 15-degree sleeping bag in ONE of my panniers. I’ve never camped before, but budget hotels were almost non-existent this summer in Western Europe. I think I’ve done 80% of the last 5 months outside.  A headlamp, tools, extra batteries, backup cell phone charger, tire pump, tire pluggers, shakedown cash in certain countries, and of course,some way to record your adventures.  How else will you make your friends jealous?

What’s your budget look like for one of these trips? Are they more or less affordable than one would think?

Answer: Great question; let’s get into specifics. It costs $3100 to fly my GS one way from Los Angeles to London using Delta Cargo.  That sounds expensive until you consider 6+ months of renting and the fact you might be limited by rental company rules on what countries the bike can enter. Shipping on water will be about $1000 less, although you’ll be without your ride for ~3 weeks instead of one and the clearance paperwork is a little more involved. Western Europe is probably the most expensive place to do this type of trip, and with the high price of gas ($6-$10/gallon), I squeak by on $100-$150/day. I prefer to dine at local restaurants, so if I cut expenses with free-roam camping (Scotland, Scandinavia, etc.) or $10-$25 campsites, that leaves plenty of cash to eat and fill up the tank.  Other expenses like ferries must be considered depending on the route.  Heading to Mexico/Central America/Eastern Europe/Asia might slash the daily budget by half.

Where do you plan to go next?

 Answer: I’m already on the road and starting to get the itch to keep going east–maybe as far as Asia.  While the living expenses will be less, the Carnet de Passage required in some of the transition countries could add considerable expense.  That’s a work in progress, but I’ll keep you posted.

What’s one tip you’d give to anyone trying to do what you do?

Answer: Find out how to go for however long you can.  Stop dreaming and make it happen!

Touratech USA

1. Packing Too Much

The first mistake happens before you even ride the motorcycle. When traveling, we have a habit of packing all the comforts from home .On a motorcycle, you’ll quickly learn how limited your available space is, which means you have to be ruthlessly economical with what comes with you and what stays home. Not to mention, all that stuff just weighs down your bike!

When we talk about the essentials, we’re talking about appropriate clothing, a tool kit (including a tire repair kit), a first aid kit, camping equipment, food (or something to prepare food), and drinking water.

I also tend to intermittently fast while riding longer distances, so I keep a quick hydration pack with me (a favorite is one brand that provides powder packs loaded with sodium, magnesium, and potassium). I’ve overpacked many times in the past, especially regarding clothing and camera equipment. Even on a weekend trip, I’d have to take not just my Zega Pro pannier setup and top case, but also a dry bag. Nowadays, I pack as minimal as possible and typically never need even a top case. The iPhones are capable of images and videos, and I don’t overpack socks and t-shirts as I once did.

2. Tensing Up

One of the most common mistakes new riders make is getting too tense. When you’re rigid in the seat and holding the bars as tightly as you can, the motorcycle won’t work as it should.

Not to mention being tense will wear you out fast. It’s understandable; riding adventure bikes can be intimidating if you’re new at this, but trust that staying loose and letting the motorcycle do the work for you is better for both you and the bike.

Again, it’s a natural situation to get tensed up and squeeze the handgrips to hard. Practice loosening up your grip. When I feel myself tensing up, I say out loud to myself, “let the suspension work, dummy.” Your bike will also handle obstacles and direction changes optimally when the suspension is working as intended—not just translating all movement through your tense body.

3. Looking Straight Down

Another rookie mistake, especially in the dirt, is looking directly in front of you as if you’re trying to track where the front tire is going. This means the world is coming at you quickly, causing your brain to have to process your surroundings and where you’re headed extremely fast. If you need to avoid something ahead of you, by the time your brain processes it, it’s too late. There’s simply not enough time to react.

Instead, look up and scan ahead. Knowing what’s in front of you allows your brain to process your surroundings at a much slower pace. And if you do see something up ahead you need to avoid, there’s plenty of time to change direction or react appropriately. Your periphery will keep track of what’s immediately in front of you, but if you’re scanning far ahead, chances are you won’t get spooked by any surprises.

Looking ahead is still one of my biggest challenges and something I train at weekly while behind the house on some single track or out for spirited street rides and during the multiple training courses (both off-road on road racing courses) I complete yearly.

During a recent two-day adventure riding camp at the BMW U.S. Rider Academy in Greer, South Carolina, I had one demanding goal—not to drop the R 1250 GS while pushing it as hard (and focused) as possible. I nearly made it until I dropped it during a mockup sand race.

I made it to the finals and wanted to win, but allowed my nervousness and focus on looking straight down at the tire in some of the deepest sand I have ever ridden through—a huge no-no for not crashing. The second-place finish wasn’t a bother, nor was the dropped bike. It was the fact that I reverted to a bad habit of looking straight down, something I’ve been working on reverting for decades.

4. Sitting When You Should Be Standing

Especially if you come from a street background, sitting on an adventure bike will seem like second nature. However, sitting is really only for smooth sections or paved roads. Off-road, standing is where you want to be. It puts the weight onto the pegs and makes it easier (and more effective) to put any inputs into the bike if you need to. When you do sit down, be sure to sit close to the tank with your elbows bent.

This lets your arms act as mini shock absorbers if you hit a bump but also allows your hands and arms to be ready if you need to make an input on the bars. When riding off-road, I spend likey 90 percent of my time standing, only sitting on smoother gravel roads to conserve energy. The goal is to stand for ultimate control of your adventure bike but do so while conserving the most amount of energy and not getting cramps in your legs.

To help, add some leg presses into your workout regime, practice breathing techniques to keep your pulse rate down, and allow your knees to press in the tank on longer straights with no obstacles to allow your body to rest in between the more challenging stuff.

5. Deflating Tires

It’s common practice to air out your tires on dirt bikes or trial bikes, but for the most part, an adventure bike is simply too big and heavy to do that. Letting air out of the tires could get you out of sand or mud, but if you do need to do that, air them back up to proper pressures after you get out.Keeping little air in the tire could cause the bike to roll slightly on the rim, damaging it. If you’re running tubes, you could also get a pinch flat, or worse yet, roll the tire off the rim.

All bad things.

Too much air will make your grip issues worse. You can bounce off rocks and objects instead of tracking where you want to go, which can cause crashes. Basically, your handling greatly depends on proper tire pressure.

I ride at the bike’s recommended pressure for longer street portions. But if the day calls for mostly off-road with some street in between, I tend to run somewhere around 30-32 aboard my main adventure bike, a KTM 1190 Adventure R typically donning 50/50 tires. This may seem like a high psi for many riders, but your riding technique can off-set some of the loss in grip. And I haven’t tacoed a rim in about eight years since I began practicing with higher off-road pressures.

6. Only Using Rear Brake

A common bit of advice a new rider might hear is to stay off the front brake because it can lock easily and dump you on the ground. Well, if you can’t use the front brake, then your only option is the rear brake. But what do you do if you have to stop quickly? The rear simply won’t be enough by itself.

Using the front brake is absolutely necessary. It just needs to be used with care since, yes, it could lock and lead to a crash. If your bike has ABS, then locking isn’t an issue. But be careful; if the ABS is tuned for the street, then you might get very little actual braking because the system is trying to prevent the front from locking.

Some bikes let you turn off ABS entirely, others only turn off the rear, and others still are always on. Still, yes, the front brake is necessary if you want to stop quickly. Take any ADV school, from the MSF course’s new adventure riding course to the BMW U.S. Rider Academy adventure school, and you’ll experience just how amazing.

7. Not Studying Terrain

Again, another easy rookie mistake. Understanding the earth underneath your tires seems easy to understand, but we often get lulled into thinking one section will be the same as the next because they look similar. This isn’t always the case. And when it’s not, the results can be dramatic. This also applies to weather patterns. If extreme rain comes down, making a path unrideable, do you have an alternate route (or two) to take instead?

This is also essential for creek crossing—especially the larger ones. We recommend walking through or using a stick to measure just how deep sections are or if there are huge, slippery rocks in the way.

This happened to me a few times while riding in unfamiliar territory. One time a small crossing appeared simple and shallow, and the next thing I know, my bike was submerged in water due to just how deep the creek was.  A quick few seconds of the bike checking depth would have saved me a few hours of waiting for my bike’s intake to air out so I could ride.

With that said, always keep your clutch covered just in case the engine goes underwater. The goal is to pull that clutch in and keep the throttle twisted – if submerged minimally, you’ll be spitting air out instead of sucking water in, helping you diverge a huge issue.

8. Riding With the Wrong People (or Alone!)

Your support group is everything, especially on a long ride. Sharing a ride with a group of friends will create memories that will last a lifetime. But if you choose the wrong friends, you might come up with lifelong memories nobody wants to have.  A good group of friends will support, help, and guide you along the way. Especially if that means warning you that something might be over your skill level. A bad group of friends might let their testosterone get the better of them and goad you into a situation you’re not ready for, with obvious consequences.

The lesson here is simple: choose good riding partners.

And try never to ride alone, especially when you’re deep into the backcountry or on a longer trip. I tended to do this often when I first began riding and even was forced to camp out on a trail near Michaux State Forest because I blew out a rim and couldn’t fix a tire.

I was having too much fun and washed out the front on a faster stretch, causing me to plummet over some rocks. And since my PSI was lower, I destroyed my rims, which sidelined me in the dark. Thankfully I had a few beverages to keep me sane—there was zero phone signal or people around until the next day when I got some help.

These are some of the most common mistakes—but we’re sure you have many, many more. Remember these, and practice as often as possible to be the safest rider possible. And safer means more miles and more enjoyment—something we can all use a bit more of these days.

Touratech-USA

By Ron Lieback

There’s some good adventure riding the closer you get to New Hampshire. In this case, the 171-mile section of the BDR from Copake Falls, New York, to Readsboro, Vermont has it all.

Expert riders will revel at the technical terrain that awaits,  and the reward for getting through the technical stuff comes in the form of picturesque views straight from a postcard.

With this in mind, novice riders should proceed with caution if attempting this route. Again, here’s a brief description from the BDR:

Welcome to the NEBDR’s gateway to New England where riders will quickly sense a change of topography as they ascend into the foothills of the Berkshires, with an abundance of bucolic scenery interspersed with fern-lined two tracks under thickly forested canopies…

 …Enter the very southwest corner of Massachusetts and enjoy a few primo dirt tracks leading south to a quick dip into Connecticut. The route then heads north again back into Massachusetts and the Berkshire Mountains that offer an abundance of ADV-friendly state forest lands to enjoy with varied/challenging terrain.

 These off-pavement highlights will definitely get you up on the pegs and include Beartown State Forest and the menacing October Mountain which will start to raise the bar on technical riding on the NEBDR.

 The pinnacle of the Berkshires is the majestic Mt. Greylock. The route takes you up a seasonal dirt track to the top, and standing at 3,491 feet tall, Greylock ranks as the highest point in the state of MA with 90+ mile views over the Berkshires to surrounding states of CT, VT & NH. If you choose to stay the night at Bascom Lodge, this period-perfect, craftsman-style lodge, don’t forget to catch the sunrise from the summit — so beautiful that poet Henry David Thoreau wrote about it.

For anyone traveling from the west or the south, the Mid-Atlantic BDR (MABDR) offers the ultimate journey to New York state.

The MABDR – the eighth BDR to be launched – takes riders 1,080 miles from Damascus in southern Virginia, to Lawrenceville, Pennsylvania, which borders New York.

MABDR is a scenic ride for dual-sport and adventure motorcycles that uses dirt, gravel and paved roads to wind through remote parts of Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania. Starting in Damascus Virginia, and ending in Lawrenceville, Tioga County, PA, this 1,080-mile route, primarily uses forest roads and rural country lanes, to lead riders through the Appalachian mountains, majestic forests, bucolic farming landscapes, Amish country, and locations that played pivotal roles in early American history.

For more, including free GPS tracks and maps, visit Backcountry Discovery Routes.

Our Brookfield CT shop is open for business and all of your rally prep. Stop by on your way to the rally!

DirtDaze Highlights

Once you make it to DirtDaze the fun will just be starting. As the biggest adventure rally in the Northeast, here are just a few of the activities available:

• Guided rides for all skill levels
• The most factory demos in the US with Triumph, Yamaha, Harley-Davidson, and KTM offering their bikes to try. And more factories might join in.
• World-class rider training. Dragoo Adventure Rider Training and SheADV! will be offering top-notch training, no matter your current skill level.
• Obstacle courses for both novice and expert riders
• Riding games (with prizes!)

Excited yet? We hope you have an epic adventure on your way to DirtDaze, because you’re sure to have one once you get here. See you on August 16th!

For additional information, visit Touratech DirtDaze Rally.

Launched in 1990 by German world travelers Herbert Schwarz and Jochen Schanz, Touratech became the world’s first adventure-motorcycle-focused aftermarket accessories brands.

The products, highlighted by Zega pannier systems and motorcycle protection for the top-selling ADV models, garnered the worldwide attention of serious long-distance tourers and weekend warriors alike.

Soon Touratech shops began spreading around the globe. To date, Touratech is now represented in 45 countries, including the USA, where stateside operations called Seattle home. Due to the brand’s popularity among American riders, Touratech decided to spread its ADV love to the East Coast, opening another shop in Brookfield, Connecticut.

The store allows something many ADV riders crave before purchasing—hands-on time with higher-priced items such as the Zega Evo Pannier system or Garmin GPS units or trying on Touratech Adventuro modular helmets or Klim gear. The shop acts as a storefront with many of Touratech’s latest products on display, including crash bars, skid plates, suspension, luggage, GPS, and of course, apparel.

But it’s not only Touratech products; many other brands associated with Touratech are sold at the Touratech East shop, including Garmin, CruzTools, Backcountry Discovery Routes, Sidi, Ram, Butler Maps, and others.

The shop also doubles as a distribution center, which reduces shipping times and costs for customers east of the Mississippi; all customers west of the Mississippi receive their products from the Seattle shop.

The storefront also has a few adventure motorcycling experts on hand to answer any questions.

We talked with the man who helped get the shop on 67 Federal Road up and running and now manages it, Steve Pospolita.

The central Connecticut native has spent over 30 years in the automotive/powersports/motorcycle industries, including much time with products like Holley Performance Products. He also spent 16 years at a popular motorcycle magazine and has a huge passion for the Touratech brand and its products.

Speaking of the opening of the Touratech-USA East, Pospolita, General Manager of Touratech-USA East, says “The popularity of ADV bikes has exploded recently. The versatility and comfort of ADV bikes are finally being recognized. New England and east coast riders are realizing the potential of riding ADV bikes on and off-road. Riders love when a company caters to their passion, and Touratech does just that. The company is now represented on the east coast, becoming a destination for many riders up and down the east coast.”

Although the store has only been open for two months, it has already become an ADV stopover for many travelers. Pospolita says part of Touratech’s goal is to have the shop become a stop for long-distance travelers, and many have already made the store a stopover on their ADV treks. The store was recently visited by a group traveling from Florida to Canada and a solo rider traveling from Pittsburgh to Maine. “We also get regular customers from Albany, New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania. The word has spread quickly!”

Although the shop doesn’t provide parts installation, Pospolita has a toolbox in the back to help out. He has provided wrenches to customers who have installed parts on their motorcycles right outside the door’s entrance.

Customers experience a wide display of products, including a fully kitted BMW R 1250 GS and Yamaha Ténéré 700. The store has sections dedicated to models like the KTM 1290 Super Adventure and Harley-Davidson Pan America. There’s also a red display with basically every CruzTools available and a green stand dedicated to the Backcountry Discovery Routes, including Butler Maps, DVDs, and stickers that long-distance travelers crave, among other things.

The back of the store acts as a distribution center that gets a visit from delivery service trucks twice daily—products come in just as quickly as they are shipped or sold within the store.

Speaking of the success of the store so far, Pospolita says, “We’ve had a soft launch and only open a couple of weeks, but the positivity is flowing—something expected of adventure riders with happy attitudes. So far pannier cases and riding gear—especially gloves—have been the top sellers. And many are happy they can come touch a product before making a purchase. That’s just the nature of this type of product-based market. We just heard a customer quote at the front counter ”everything I need within 150 miles of my house. Oh yeah!”

Looking to visit? The store follows the same schedules popularized by automotive and motorcycle dealerships within the New England area, offering a Tuesday through Saturday.

Touratech-USA East, Brookfield

67 Federal Rd.

Brookfield, CT 06804

Phone: (800) 491-2926

Store Hours:

• Tuesday–Friday:9:30 a.m. – 6 p.m. ET
• Saturday: 8:30 a.m.– 5 p.m. ET

By Ron Lieback

1. Proper ADV Body Position with Adjusted Controls

Many advanced riders may say, “here we go again,” but proper body position needs to be unconscious, and that begins with the endless practice of the basics.

So first things first. Where do you put yourself on the bike? Unlike street riding, with ADV riding, you will often find yourself going back and forth between sitting on the seat and standing on the pegs. You’ll be moving around a lot because where you put your weight is important. But for starters, you stand when you’re off-road, sit when you’re on-road.

While sitting, use the balls of your feet on the pegs. While standing, more of the middle of the foot so you can shift and control the rear brake while using all of your balance.

In simplest form, while steering, push the bike away from you when you’re trying to turn in the dirt while keeping your body straight up and not leaning into the turn. This keeps the weight distributed and allows the tires to bite into the dirt (read more about ADV motorcycle tire selection here.).

On the road, you generally want to tip your body mass into the turn (opposite from dirt riding) to help the motorcycle steer. This keeps more of the tire on the pavement, keeping the motorcycle planted.

Some riders get too caught up in proper positioning to the point they forget other fundamentals like properly adjusted controls. For example, you can be a master of using your body mass, either sitting or standing, to steer, but if your levers are nowhere near your fingers, you will get into trouble if you need to use them.

The point is to place your levers and bars within easy (and natural) reach of your fingers so you can work the controls and control the handlebar—and thus the motorcycle—when needed. If your arms tire while standing, your levers are likely not adjusted properly.

You are also likely putting too much weight on your arms and not using your feet to keep your balance and body planted.

And learn to use two or three fingers on the clutch and brake levers—any more and you’ll not be able to keep control of the motorcycle if the bars are under hard braking or acceleration.

Also, don’t our body type will determine exactly where to sit on the bike, but generally speaking, the natural shape of the bike will likely put you near the front of the tank. I was trained to have at least all four fingers (with gloves on) separating me from the gas tank.

Don’t forget the motorcycle manufacturers experiment with different seat and tank shapes to get the rider in a good position for the bike’s intended purpose, so sitting up close with the levers properly situated should put you in the driver’s seat once you get moving.

2. ADV Weight Distribution

Now that you know how to properly place your body to affect where the motorcycle goes, let’s get a bit deeper. Especially at slower speeds, offsetting the weight and center of gravity of the motorcycle with your own body weight helps the bike steer.

You probably already know that, but even the most advanced riders don’t utilize proper weight distribution when steering—especially while standing off-road at low speeds. The offset weight should allow you to fully lock the bars and not drop the bike (vision is a HUGE part of this also, which I’ll cover later).

But what you might have overlooked is the importance of where you place the weight of your luggage, as that has an impact on your bike’s handling and what you need to do as a rider to cope.

The proverbial rule of thumb is to keep your additional weight as low as possible and distributed evenly across the bike. For example, load panniers so their weights are as close as possible and put the heavier items at the bottom. Properly loaded bikes ease riding, especially in the slow and tight stuff.

3. Pick It Up

Here’s a harsh reality: sooner or later, you’ll drop your bike. Once you accept that fact, here’s what you do next: learn to pick it up.

The common method is to stand over your bike, lean over, and pick it up. But that’s terrible for your back—not to mention ineffective. Most of these bikes are heavy—a BMW R 1250 GS can be well over 650 pounds with packed bags.

Use the most powerful muscles you have—your legs—to pick up the bike. Instead of leaning over it, turn your back towards the fallen side, bend down, grab some stable points (usually the bar, subframe, tank, just anything that won’t move), keep your back straight, and walk backwards into the bike, lifting with your legs at the same time.

As the bike gets more vertical, the easier it’ll be. Just don’t push too hard and flip the bike over to the other side.

Here’s a great video from RawHyde Adventures on how to properly pick up a fallen ADV bike.

4. Smooth Inputs

To make a motorcycle do what you want, it’s best to be smooth with your inputs. Remember the Navy SEAL adage: Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. So, learn to ride smooth and slow, and the speed (and ease!) portions will occur naturally.

A jerky throttle or brake hand creates a wild and dangerous motorcycle. Sudden steering inputs usually don’t work out well. Smooth and deliberate input from the rider yields the same results from the motorcycle.

In that way, not only is the bike doing what you want, but it’s also giving you feedback. You can feel what the suspension is doing, how the tires are working, and whether any adjustments need to be made.

There are a few rare exceptions to this rule, especially in off-road situations, but generally speaking, a smooth rider is a happy rider—and a faster rider, if that’s your thing.

5. Keep Those Eyes Up!

I saved the best for last—likely because it challenges me often both on and off the road. It’s one of the oldest sayings in motorcycling, but it’s true: look where you want to go. The body (and in this case, the motorcycle) follows the eyes.

If you look down while riding, the whole world will fly by at lightning speed. It’s hard for the brain to process all of that—not to mention you can’t see where you’re going! If you look up and scan ahead, the brain has more time to process what’s in front of you.

This even helps keep your balance while going slow, something that challenges many riders, beginners, and advanced riders alike. Once you look down, you’ll lose focus and balance, and the bike usually ends up on the ground.

You can even try this when you’re not on the motorcycle. Walk around and look at the ground. You can’t go very fast, can you? And you certainly don’t know where you’re going. Now, look up and in front of you like you normally would. Much easier and faster to walk around, right? It’s the same concept on the bike. In off-road scenarios, scanning ahead will be very important when deciding which line or route to take, especially in the tight stuff.

This looking down problem happened to me at the BMW Rider Academy schooling. I challenged myself not to drop the bike during the two days of training, and I knew the only way for that to be remotely possible was to truly embrace every technique with 100-percent focus.

But during a mock-up race in some deep sand, I allowed the adrenaline to overcome my focus due to loving serious challenges. This made me take second—I dropped my bike because I looked down at a sand rut instead of looking ahead and letting my vision do the steering. I dropped the bike—and had to focus deeper on technique. Regardless, it was the only time I dropped my bike during training, but it helped confirm how fast a lack of looking ahead can prompt a fall.

Although many advanced techniques exist, these basics must be mastered—and often revisited—for successful riding. And successful riding means safer riding, which keeps us all happier human beings.

New riders should keep these points in mind and practice them when they ride, while veterans should remember these tips as refreshers of the fundamentals.

Again, these are just starting points. There are so many things to learn and practice when it comes to mastering the art of ADV riding. The beauty of this hobby is that perfection will never be reached—but it sure is fun to get close.

Touratech USA

Adventure Riding Helmets

Ever seen a rider with a $25,000 adventure bike and a $100 lid? I see it often. One rider I knew did exactly this. He bought a totally specced-out R 1250 GS, but when it came to gear, his entire kit cost less than $400. After a few weekends, he became angry due to being uncomfortable, which led to frustration and the eventual sale of his bike.

Don’t be that rider—especially when helmets are involved.

ADV helmets are the most essential part of your gear, and money spent here is well spent. Not only can it save your life during a crash, but a quality lid can also provide a more enjoyable ride due to higher comfort levels.

Here’s where I put my brains into the most trusted lids available that comply with both DOT and the European ECE 22.05 safety standards.

Next is overall design: street style, dual-sport, or modular? Most adventure riders use a dual-sport style with a sun peak, and others modular. Some like to combine both designs, such as the Touratech Aventuro Traveller, one of my go-to ADV lids, especially when riding often off-road (the other is an Arai XD4).

If you are using a dual-sport style helmet with a peak, remember that wind buffeting can cause discomfort on faster or sustained highway rides. Look for a lid that has a peak that either cut through wind or are completely removable. I tend to remove my Aventuro or XD4’s peak when slabbing it for anything longer than a half-hour or so. The little effort to remove them—although both helmets offer nice wind flow through the peak—keeps me more comfortable, and thus focused more on the ride.

Comfort is key, and the only way to truly know is to wear one for more than an hour—that’s when the hot spots will be noticed, and whatever other comfort is there. Many online markets allow free exchanges of lids within 30 days.

If you’re going to put a few hundred dollars into a helmet, make sure it’s comfortable. Wear one at home for an hour or so, and make sure the comfort is there—look for hot spots that annoy a certain part of your head, and the actual feel of the helmet’s inner liner/cheek pads.

Not happy? Ship it back and try something else. All other factors won’t matter if the lid is uncomfortable, to begin with.

The next essential element is ventilation, which can vary drastically between lids. This is where reviews come into play. Study what the top publications are saying. Ventilation will always be a top mention.

Personally, the Arai XD4 and Touratech Aventuro Traveller (modular lid) both offer comfort for my head shape. I use the XD4 for longer travel due to the increased ventilation and comfort, and the Aventuro for shorter, weekend, or day rides.

Adventure Riding Jackets and Pants

Besides protection, adventure riding jackets and pants need waterproofing, ventilation, and comfort while sitting and standing. The latter is what increases the challenges for apparel manufacturers. But many have nailed the design, though, like helmets, you get what you pay for.

Nothing beats Gore-Tex when you’re looking to stay dry and comfortable. The material is fully waterproof and breathable, and as long as you have your zippers closed, and toss the garment in the dryer annually to reactivate the waterproofing molecules, you’ll remain dry.

Gore-Tex also provides added abrasion resistance, something your jacket and pants must have to keep protected. Other elements to seek are comfortable elbow, shoulder, back, or other armor.

Technology has grown tremendously in armor over the past decade, including a favorite of mine, D3O. This material remains flexible until impacting something. I blame it for saving cracked bones numerous times, especially one time when a branch knocked me down at like 80 mph. I was standing and had my chest D3O protector in my KLIM Badlands. I went flying but didn’t break anything. I was impressed, and quickly became a loyal fan of this protection.

Also, check for comfort and movement while sitting and standing. If you can test apparel out at a local shop or dealership, do it. Or buy from someone with free exchanges. If you’re going to spend serious money on apparel, make sure it’s as perfect as possible—though we all know that quirks will surface eventually.

As for my picks, I go with anything from KLIM. My go-to for ADV riding is the Badlands Pro. It’s top of the price range, but you get what you pay for—including armpit vents which make a drastic difference when riding. I also have a Baja 4 for extremely hot temperatures, but you must carry a rain suit with you, which is a PITA but is worth it for the hotter weather—especially when rain is not expected.

Adventure Riding Gloves

When it comes to adventure riding gloves, I’m super picky. So picky that I typically bring four pairs with me for one day of riding.

Comfort is key here. Nothing can destroy comfort, and subsequently a distracted mind that reduces safe riding, then gloves that are too tight or loose, and don’t get me started on longer fingers.

And beware of some waterproof liners. If you’re hands get sweaty, the inner liner can quickly become jumbled underneath the outer layer of the glove.

The solution here? Gore-Tex (you can see the trend here).

For hotter weather, I always have a pair or two of gloves that offer some mesh. Some favorites here include KLIM’s Baja 4 and Dakar gloves, and the Racer Rallye Glove.

In regards to rain gloves, KLIM GTX short cuff and Badlands GTX long glove.

Adventure Riding Boots

For me, ADV boots all come down to waterproofing. I can deal with sweaty feet, but most of the boots I’ve ridden with over the past decade didn’t provide any breathable issues.

I tend to wear more street-focused boots because I use super-sharp pegs on my adventure bikes, and like the comfort and quicker access to remove them.. I have yet to have any issues with slipping or breaking ankles, so I’ve been fine so far.

But a grippier sole does help when riding in mud or long stretches of rain off-road.

As for construction, Gore-Tex is once again the way to go here; it’s breathable and guaranteed to keep you dry.

My picks for ADV boots are the SIDI Adventure 2 Gore-Tex Boots, Alpinestars WEB Gore-Tex, and Spidi X-Trail Outdry. The latter are more of a sport-touring boot, but they offer super amazing comfort across all styles of riding, though you do need grippier pegs if you’re doing any standing off-road in muddy or wet conditions.

In 2022 Touratech will be releasing the much anticipated Destino GTX boot!

Adventure Riding Base Layers & Socks

I never ride without base layers. They provide comfort in the hottest or coldest of temperatures and everything in between. Plus I despise the feel of a jacket/pants liners on my skin.

Find good breathable base layers for each season. I use Touratech’s Primero Allroad base layers for anything above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and the Primero Alpine for anything below 50 degrees. These use a unique blend of polyamide and polyester that keep you comfortable.

Also, add in a neck gaiter for added comfort. They keep you cool in the summer—especially when you soak them with water when stopped—and warm in the cooler months.

Now that I covered my thoughts on what qualities to seek in ADV riding gear, here are some tips to get the best out of your gear and comfort.

ADV Riding Gear Tips for Comfort and Safety

• Layer Up: If you want to ride for a long time under the constantly changing conditions adventure riders face, layer up. You can remove layers or add them as needed. I wear base layers religiously, ones for colder temps, and others for hotter temps. I always have a zip-up mid-layer in the bags, and, depending on the brand, a jacket liner when it’s colder. Also, keep extra neck gaiters handy—use one for dipping in cold water throughout the warmer days, and replace it with a nice dry one for when the temps drop. And I’m a fan of different gloves throughout a day’s ride. I sometimes bring four pairs with me for a single day of riding. Comfort is key for my safety (although I may be slightly neurotic when it comes to comfortable hands).

• Air Out and Store Gear in the Tent: If you’re camping, allow your apparel, including your boots, helmet, and gloves, to air out (of course if it’s not raining or foggy). I typically dress my bike in my gear, hanging the jacket over the windscreen, gloves on mirrors, pants, and boots across the seat, and helmet wherever there’s room high on the bike with the visor open. Once it had time to breathe, I store it inside the tent—down by my feet because stuff gets stinky. Also, make sure to shake out well before storing due to bugs.

• Clean Upon Return: When returning from an ADV ride, give your gear a good scrub. I sometimes go for months without cleaning my bike (except that chain!), but my gear is cleaned religiously after most rides—especially the dusty ones without any rain. I hose it off and use a light brush, and hang the gear to dry either outside or in the garage. This helps keeps the gear fresh and lasts longer.

• Wax Zippers: A must-read for adventure motorcyclists is Helge Pedersen’s 10 Years on 2 Wheels. Pedersen also has loads of tips for riding across the world, including one of my favorites—waxing your zippers. This keeps the zippers lubed and working while blocking dirt and other particles. It helps prevent many breaks, also, something I have experienced way too often while testing cheaper gear, which brings me to the final point.

• Always Pack Safety Pins/Duct Tape: For me, zippers break at the worst time. This happened on my last trip while riding 750 miles to my home in Northeast Pennsylvania from Georgia. As soon as the sun began descending, the temps dropped about 10 degrees. I went to zip up a leg vent on my SPIDI suit, and the zipper jammed into the perforated layer and split open. I had forgotten safety pins and tape, so my right leg was cold during the trek back. Thankfully it didn’t rain, or I would have surely wrapped a neck gaiter around my leg.

If you’re looking to ride safer and longer, the above ADV riding gear qualities will help you achieve this mission (as will the tips!). Armed with this knowledge, happy shopping. There’s plenty of amazing gear available, and everyone will have a perfect style or fit for their unique comfort needs. And remember, the upper brands may be more expensive, but in the long term every penny is worth it. The gear will likely outlast the least expensive models, and the safety factors will surely be higher.

For more, check out our other blog that focuses on choosing gear for beginner riders.

Touratech

By Ron Lieback

Photos by Jon Beck

Finding a campsite is easy. Finding the perfect campsite is another story. With these tips, we’ll tell you what to look for to find a comfortable, and safe, night’s sleep.

At the end of a long day in the ADV saddle, there are few things better than settling down for the day, setting up camp, and enjoying the night under the stars with a warm meal and fire by your side. Or a night of rain, but let’s not focus on that right now.

But we’ve all been there: your ride takes several unexpected detours and you end up having to set up camp somewhere you didn’t expect. In the dark, no less.

By the next morning, you’ve awoken in amazement. With the advantage of sunlight, you can see how terrible your spot actually was; you’ve slept on a bumpy slope at the bottom of a canyon. One time I set up camp around 11 p.m. and awoke next to a tree with a hornet’s nest…and I’m allergic to the buggers. Needless to say that morning’s packing went extremely slow.

They say what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, so let’s take these lessons and write them down so other adventure riders can learn from our collective mistakes.

Following are eight tips for finding the perfect campsite on your adventure ride. Some of these might seem obvious, but hopefully, some of these will be added to your bag of tricks the next time you’re looking for a campsite.

1. Plan Ahead

It goes without saying that the best way to avoid unexpected surprises when finding that perfect campsite is to plan ahead and do your research. Google is your friend here, and wherever you’re going there’s a good chance someone else has already been there and can recommend places to set up camp for the night.

If you’re lucky, they might even include GPS coordinates or pins to point you exactly where to go. Otherwise, look up campsites in the area (and along your route), and even reserve a spot if you need to.

Of course, things can and do go wrong on a trip and even most optimal plans don’t always work out. In times like these having a few apps to help you mid-ride can be a major benefit. I don’t want to sound salesy, so simply Google “camping apps” and you’ll find many.

2. Take the High Road

When it comes to elevation, try and pick a spot as high as possible to avoid potential rain from flooding your site.

Keep in mind that while a creek-bed can be a nice spot to set up shop at the end of the day, it can be prone to flooding, potentially from storms you can’t even see. Rainwater from far away could impact the creek you’re at and cause the water levels to rise, and sometimes quicker than you think.

Some of the prettiest campsites are along a creek, but please be aware of the possibility of rising water.

3. Keep It Level

This might seem obvious, but it’s worth repeating. If possible, look for a campsite on level ground. It’ll make your night a little more comfortable. If you can’t, put your head up high and your feet down low. This is my favorite practice because I sleep better when I’m on a slight decline.

While we’re at it, make sure the ground beneath your tent is smooth—nobody likes sleeping on a lumpy surface. If you have to, before setting up your tent, smooth out the surface as best as possible. Your back will thank you for it.

4. Here Comes The Sun

You have a compass with you, right? Use it to determine which way the sun will rise (it comes up from the east, remember) and orient your tent door accordingly.

Getting up in the morning on your own terms instead of having the sun blast through your tent wall and into your retinas sounds far more pleasant. While we’re at it, take advantage of any shade your site might provide to keep you cooler and block the sun’s rays.

But sometimes in desert or hotter climates that sun may cook your tent in the morning, so you’ll want to be positioned away from it. Or you’re camping in much cooler climates and want all that sun baking your tent as much as possible. Do what’s best for your comfort—and let the sun assist as needed (or not).

5. Traffic

Setting up camp away from high-traffic areas is the way to go. The reasons should be obvious, but you’ll have the benefits of less noise, a lower chance of onlookers snooping through your things, and an overall nicer experience. If the day gets away from you and you find yourself at your campsite at night, gauging the traffic might be more difficult.

Plus, sometimes I’m the louder party when the cigars start ripping and the drinks start flowing, so I never want to be that jerk to others trying to enjoy a good evening of solitude.

6. Watch The Weather

Closely! Of course, you’ll do your best to monitor the weather before your trip, but if you’re out for a long adventure, keep an eye on the weather regularly during your trip and avoid storms and bad weather as much as possible.

This might mean changing your route or riding for a longer or shorter amount of time than originally planned to avoid a storm, but the benefits of doing such should be fairly obvious. That said, if you absolutely have to set up your campsite in an area predicted for bad weather, remember the tips above for high elevation and level ground. If possible, ensure your campsite has good drainage, too.

I once idiotically parked my bike near the low point of the campsite. Little did I know that a quick rainstorm at night would produce just enough water to moisten the ground and allow my bike to sink and tip over. And that was with an enormous aftermarket kickstand plate.

7. Water

The last point was about avoiding water, but this one is about having enough. We humans have a love/hate relationship with water. We need it to survive, but we only want it when it benefits us.

In this case, make sure you have access to water at your campsite—or know-how and/or where to get some such as a creek nearby. It’ll serve you well for washing up those stinky armpits and cooking.

However, if you don’t have access to clean water and plan on drinking some, be sure to boil it or bring purification tablets to kill off any bacteria. I’ve seen one person get sick from contaminated water while camping, and it wasn’t too pretty.

8. Leave No Trace

While we love nature as much as the next person after we’re done enjoying our campsite and soaking in everything it has to offer, be responsible and leave your site as you found it. Or better. Pick up and dispose of your trash, and leave no evidence you were ever there. Mother Nature thanks you for it.

I’ve had many experiences of trash being left at campsites I’ve used. Of course, I cleaned up after others to preserve it for the next rider or camper, but it pains me to do so. Always take in what you take out.

Be mindful of these above tips, and your next adventure motorcycling camping trip will certainly be more enjoyable. You’ll also have a better night’s rest, which equates to the ultimate need on any serious riding: more energy and focus to remain safer and happier.

Touratech USA

Adventure Tire Traction

Each ratio is designed for either stronger traction on the road or off the road, and it all begins with compound and design factors. The softer the compound, the better the traction in the dirt and on the road. This is typically more of a focus for road riders as soft compounds will drastically increase traction, but at the cost of lifespan. There’s not much to worry about here, as OEMs offer well-rounded compounds for DOT-legal tires.

The tread design is a much different story. The deeper the treads, the better the tire will grip in the dirt. You’ll want more grooves between the “blocks” of rubber on the outer portions of the tire to dig into the dirt and deeper ones to clean dirt/mud from the tread to offer more bite in the dirt. This design offers less traction on paved road surfaces because you’ll want more rubber as the bike is leaned onto less and less tire.

Adventure Tire Stability

The closer the motorcycle tire’s design gets to a dirt focus, the less stability you’ll have when cornering or braking on the asphalt. Dirt-focused tires tend to flex more and provide an unplanned feel on corners and under braking. This is typically noticed on modern tires that focus on a 60/40 ratio and onwards to more off-road focus.

The question is—can you withstand the unsettled feel of a tire when aggressively cornering on the street? Due to modern technology, traction is there, though it feels sketchy. I’ve rubbed knees on asphalt while testing 50/50 or close compounds like the Dunlop Trailmax Mission, Bridgestone AX41, and Pirelli Scorpion Rallye STRs. The nerves have to be conditioned for aggressively leaning a larger ADV bike with these tires on the pavement, but the traction is certainly there.

Larger knobbies also provide a bumpy feel at highway speeds, something that can also test the nerves of riders. But, again, it’s all about preference.

Wet Performance

When considering wet performance, the tread pattern makes the most considerable difference, And the optimal on-road wet tread is much different from the off-road tread patterns.

A tire like the TKC 80 and its big-block design can quickly channel mud and wet off-road terrain, providing better traction. But on the wet asphalt, the tires can feel squirmy on the wet. The feeling is reversed with a tire like the Dunlop Trailmax Mission, which feels super planted due to the tread design on the wet pavement, and squirmy on the dirt.

ADV Tire Longevity

Here’s the quick and simple deal. The more you ride a dirt-focused tire on the road, say a 10/90 ratio, the quicker you’ll burn through them. The same isn’t true for riding a more street-focused tire off-road, say an 80/20, but you’ll sacrifice grip.

Most tires around the 50/50 and 60/40 marks offer comparable performance to longevity ratios. For example, I’ve heard riders getting upwards of 8,000 miles out of a set of Dunlop Trailmax Mission tires while riding a majority of the time on road. The most I’ve personally got out of a set of 50/50 tires is around 3,000 miles (Pirelli Scorpion Rallye STRs), and that was with me riding the bike like a sportbike and varying pressures on road and off-road.  As for TCKs, once my all-time favorite ADV tire, I never got more than 1,500 miles out of them.

Asphalt Road Noise

Another simple insight: the more off-road focus, the more noise. For the middle-focused 50/50 or so tires, on-road noise can vary dramatically. For example, the Bridgestone AX41s are much quieter than the TKC 80s. And the Dunlop Trailmission Max tires are much quieter than the Pirelli Scorpion Rallye STRs.

Read reviews and ask about this if it’s a problem. For most riders, I’ve encountered and myself, tire noise on the road is not an issue.

Performance to Price Ratio

I’ve seen prices range drastically, from Shinko 705s costing around $75 for a front and $145 for a rear, to Michelin Anakee Wilds from $140 for a front and $255 for a rear, with many in-between that.

The more road-oriented tires typically are on the upper level of the price range, but these typically get more mileage which can quickly justify the cost.

It’s all about the performance you want. Unfortunately, if you are looking for that proverbial unicorn of a tire that offers mileage and strong performance off and on the road, prices are going to be higher.

A Quick Note About Adventure Tire PSI

While testing adventure tires for 10+ years on larger platforms such as my KTM 1190 Adventure R, I’ve always changed the pressures for each riding situation. I typically run factory-suggested PSI for the road and drop pressures down to around 28 for off-road sections.

This practice will help you achieve more mileage out of your tires, especially when slabbing it for 100+ miles in-between dirt rides. I keep a PSI gauge and MotoPump with me, and those few minutes extend my tire life and my safety. Traction is limited off-road with higher PSI, and stability is limited on-road with lower PSI.

When ADV tire shopping, the golden rule is to be honest with yourself—for most of your riding, are you going to chase gnarly off-road surfaces for most of the time, carve asphalt canyons, or spend hours on the highways? The answers will help you ultimately decide what tire ratio is best for you. And if you can’t decide, trust in the technology and begin with a 50/50 tire. Newbies and experienced riders alike are always surprised at just how capable these tires are in both on- and off-road situations. And they seem to get better yearly, which will help make your future decision dilemma about what ratio to go with much easier.’

Speak to a Touratech ADV Expert about the best tire for you!

Adventure bikes didn’t interest me until 2010. Until then, I spent most of my moto life riding sportbikes and training/testing on road-racing circuits.

Due to my past, transitioning into the ADV world arrived with multiple challenges.

Two initially stick out—retraining a mindset that only focused on road-racing techniques and the psychological challenge of riding larger ADV bikes off-road. Then came the challenge of swapping between the on- and off-road techniques without a conscious effort.

While already into my 30s, I skipped the usual learning on a smaller off-road bike. Instead, I went big—and super heavy—with a 2002 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000. This bike’s design catered to comfortable upright touring with a few gravel roads here and there. This to me was the perfect platform to truly build skill upon as I tested the ADV scene out, seeing if it was a good fit for my passion-driven moto lifestyle. If not, I thought it’d make a good plow or snow bike.

After my first tour, which included many fire roads, I was more than obsessed. I modded the V-Strom heavily, and after a two years of disciplined self-training through books and videos and classes with the RawHyde Adventures and Jimmy Lewis, I could comfortably take the Strom off the road without worry.

I still have the same love for sportbikes, though, so my current training involves practicing both on- and off-road techniques to ride bigger adventure bikes safer and faster. Nowadays, my ride is the KTM 1190 Adventure R, which to me is the best outright big ADV available.

Most ADV riders I encounter, whether on a new local group ride or big adventure rally, arrive from an off-road background. And when we’re ripping country asphalt, questions surface about my on-road riding style on the bigger adventure touring bike.

The following are the first techniques I discuss, each arriving from the world of sportbikes and road racing.

A quick note: These techniques are best for bigger adventure bikes (BMW R 1250 GS, KTM 1290 Adventure, Triumph Tiger 1200, etc.) shod with at least 50/50 (50 percent on-road, 50 percent off-road) or more street-oriented adventure motorcycle tires. These modern ADV tires offer more traction and feel on-road than a full-out sport tire did 20 years ago. Adventure-motorcycle tire technology improves yearly, allowing riders like me who crave ultimate confidence on and off the road to push the limits further.

I’ve spent the past two years testing multiple 50/50 tires, from the Continential TKC80 to the Bridgestone AX41 to Pirelli Scorpion Rallye STR to the Dunlop Trailmax Mission, and continue to question how they are so good at sportbike speeds and, after taking out a few PSI, super-capable off-road.

With that note aside, the following are some simple strategies borrowed from the sportbike/road-racing world that will help you ride faster on the asphalt and safer.

1. Seating Position

Optimal body position, or BP, begins with the optimal seating position for road riding. Most off-road riders learn to sit close to the gas tank due to the bike’s design, but this position can harm your sport-focused on-road performance for bigger adventure bikes.

The goal is to have a comfortable position that assists with the finesse of your hand controls—throttle, front brake, clutch, and pushing/pulling handlebar inputs.

The ideal position? Not too far from the gas tank and not too far away—say about an inch or two, although every rider’s preference will differ based on arm and torso length. While wearing riding gloves, I put all my fingers together, press my thumb against my middle, and ring fingers as an Italian would say when saying “delizioso” about food. Then I stick that between the tank and myself. This distance has worked over and over on numerous motorcycles, from my 1190 R to my Multistrada to dozens of sportbikes I’ve tested throughout the years.

Never be glued to the tank or sitting too far back; it won’t allow you to move across the seat while transitioning weight, and it will create unsmooth inputs to your controls.

2. Proper Finger and Feet Positioning

The next thing to tweak is your fingers and feet’ positions. This is a natural practice for many dual-sport riders, so I won’t’ waste much time here.

Two fingers on the brake allow more than enough power to brake hard, but also finely tune braking inputs during trail braking and throttle maintenance (discussed more below), and when blipping the throttle under braking to rev-match your engine rpm to the speed, so you don’t lock up the rear tire (yes—auto-blippers are typical on many modern ADV bikes, but I will also match-rev my throttle inputs to speed).

I also use only two fingers on the clutch, which helps with slipping the clutch off-road in slow maneuvers and downshifting while blipping the throttle during on-road situations.

The same goes for the feet—many enduro riders stand on the pegs using the balls of their feet (just behind the toes) but fail to do so while sitting. Keep the balls of your feet on the pegs during road riding, which allows you to smoothly transition from side to side and slide across the seat while weighing the inside peg (more below). This also keeps your toes from whacking the pavement in sharp corners, which can upset your chassis and startle you, prompting a crash.

3. More Body Position, Less Lean Angle

Speaking about moving across the seat, this is where one of the largest discrepancies arrives when riding on the street versus the dirt. We keep our body upright on an enduro and lean the bike into the turns, allowing the knobbies to bite into the loose dirt/gravel/sand for tracking.

But on the street, we want to keep the bike as upright as possible and move our weight into the corner. This keeps the tire wider and provides more traction on the asphalt.

When heading into a corner, you first want to look where you’re going, keeping your head “in the mirror” or moving off the bike’s center and into the direction you’re going. You then slide your butt a bit off the seat into the direction of the turn and weigh the inside peg (the one going into the turn). This is the total opposite of riding in the dirt, where you want to weigh the outside peg to retain the most traction as you allow the knobbies to bite into the loose ground.

Due to the modern tires and the amazing modern adventure touring chassis setups, you don’t have to lean off MotoGP-style. Just enough to help keep as much rubber on the asphalt as possible—even if only an inch or so to the left or right.  Too much leaning input not only looks dumb, but it can upset your chassis quicker, causing you the crash.

Remember this in wet conditions, especially. Proper body position can save from crashing.

Again, the more rubber on the ground, the better. And the modern 50/50 tire designs keep you planted.

4. Trail Braking

This is a concept that can again save your life while making your ride much faster and smoother.

Trail braking simply means trailing off the brakes as your bike slows, leans, and turns through a corner. To slow your ADV machine, you do most of your hard braking while the bike is upright, and there’s a much larger tire contact patch. As you start leaning and turning, you gradually “trail” the brakes, reducing pressure as you corner and the lean angle becomes stronger.

I tend to trail brake until I reach the apex of a corner, and from there, I get off the brake completely and start smoothly rolling on the throttle to WOT if needed (or warranted).

This is where throttle maintenance comes into play, also. When reducing lean and steering inputs, you want to gradually roll your throttle on until enough contact patch is big enough to crank on the throttle more. If you give too much input, you’ll lose traction and high-side—something no ADV rider wants.

5. Throttle Maintenance and Braking Inputs

For ultimate speed and control of the bike, the goal is NEVER to have any idle time—you’re either on the throttle for maintenance or speed or on the brakes. When no inputs are provided, you have no control, which is when crashes happen. You always want control over what your suspension and drive train are doing.

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• On the front brake: The front tire is loaded, and suspension is compressed, giving you firm control of the asphalt and more traction.
• On the throttle: rear suspension is loaded, rear tire contact is larger, and there’s less control of the steering inputs because the front suspension is unloaded and the front end lighter, reducing tire traction.
• Maintenance throttle: this keeps the chain tight and the suspension from diving forward or unloading, providing optimal traction in front and rear.
• On the rear brake: The rear tire and suspension loads, providing additional traction out back. Light use of the rear brake can be a lifesaver, especially when you’re carrying too much speed in a corner and are going wide, about to go over the double yellow or centerline. Lightly using the rear brake—with finesse—can tighten your line while maintenance throttle is in use. \

On the topic of brakes, many sportbike newbies only use a front brake, rarely touching the rear brake. This is wrong. For emergency stops, just as in the dirt, using both front and rear brakes will help you stop MUCH quicker. The same is for the street.

And optimizing your rear brake use can help in multiple ways. It can help slow easily; keep the suspension even when stopping (passengers love this because there’s no dive!), and help tighten a line on the street or scrub speed, as I explained above. This is a great technique to keep you safe and fast while traveling in Europe, where the decreasing radius and tight turns are encountered often.

Also, when having to emergency brake, always use both brakes. This is why the best ADV riders practice technique often both on and off the road. Different inputs are needed for both riding situations, so know your ability and your bike’s ability well by practicing constantly.

6. Wide, Deep, and Late

I learned this technique at Aaron Stevenson’s Cornerspeed school in the early 2000s. If you want to be quick and safe when encountering the numerous blind corners in real-world riding, remember three words when cornering: Wide, Deep, and Late.

The concept is simple and preps you for any dangers that may be present on the road. For example, if you’re heading into a blind right corner with some speed, make your line wider and deeper by riding closer to the centerline, then turn later when you have the clearest vision of what’s ahead.

This simple practice allows you to see first, then choose a different line if something is obstructing the roadway or a car is coming over the yellow line.

7. Look Further Ahead and Scan More

Due to the typical slower speeds on the trails, looking far ahead becomes natural. But on the street, when speeds are cranking, you should learn to look even farther ahead.

The farther you look, the larger the picture, and the more things in front of you slow down. This allows you to see threats—oncoming cars, potholes, something on the road like slick spots or animals—sooner and have more time to react. This also allows you to notice opportunities like giving more throttle input or setting some imaginary braking markers as a turn approaches, which keeps you safer and faster.

Besides looking farther ahead due to increased speed, you should also learn to scan your eyes more often. Not drastically, but smoothly, searching wider side-to-side to notice any threats and have enough time to use the proper input of controls.

Looking farther ahead and scanning more is all about being a more proactive rider. And a proactive rider is a much safer rider than one who needs to react quickly to an unknown circumstance that can send you sailing.

For many big-bike adventure riders who come from a dirt background, mastering safety and speed off-road becomes an obsession. Many also want to master this on the road but quickly realize after a few “oh-shit” moments—or crashes—that those off-road techniques don’t work on the street.

But with some practice of the above techniques, riders can build the optimal skills needed to pilot their adventure bikes safer and faster on the asphalt. The only next step is to have the mindset to switch between both skillsets when required, which will take additional time on the bike, practicing both on and off the road. That equates to rider more, something passionate riders never complain about.

TOURATECH-USA

1. Visualize More

I believe that 80 percent of the riding well game is mental, and 20 percent is physical. Besides the constant studying of new techniques and riding habits through the numerous videos and books available, visualizing yourself completing these new techniques makes all the difference.

This is due to neuroplasticity. Without getting geeky, basically, our brains have the ability to rewire themselves to form new neural connections and pathways based on interactions with our environments. Studies show that visualizing something sends the same signals to the brain as actually doing something, which allows you to tackle riding situations much easier when on the bike because your brain thinks you have completed the riding task before.

This is nothing new in sports. People like 23-time gold medalist Michael Phelps constantly attribute visualization as part of his mental preparation for success when swimming in the Olympics. And how many MotoGP riders do you see visualizing riding the circuit before a race, typically in full leathers with their hands on the imaginary controls? The latter has always been a favorite before riding various race tracks, and video games further helped with the visualization.

This moto mindset takes this visualization practice that modern neuroscience has confirmed worked and can make you a much better rider. I sometimes just refer to it as daydreaming, something that can be completed often amid the boring, mundane tasks of everyday working life.

Visualize all—not just the sites, but also the sounds of things like a slipping clutch to the smells of a damp morning while riding over slippery pine needles.

I do this often by riding my 1190 Adventure R on some of the rockiest and tightest single tracks possible or crossing deeper creeks. If you’re mentally prepared you’ll be in much better shape when these adventures begin.

And to maximize all, do a few visualizations – first of yourself actually riding the bike, feeling the controls and hearing the engine, and then from a third-person perspective, seeing yourself riding.

2. You Can Master Controls and Balance

The ultimate solution to smoother riding that can make you faster (if you like speed) and tackle the off-road like Marc Coma is mastering your controls. Finesse is the name of the game in regards to throttle, brake, and steering inputs. And a simple change in mindset to understand you can master these inputs can make a lifelong difference in your ability to ride better and longer.

It does take effort, though, but there’s one simple practice and one that’s for free. Walk your bike around your backyard or favorite trail or whatever you have available.

The more unlevel the terrain, the better. This will give you an immediate feel for clutch, brake, and throttle finesse.

Then challenge yourself to ride as slow as possible on the same terrain while standing up. Kick-off legs here and there, which will also help you improve balance, and use only one hand depending on if you need throttle or clutch.

Think like a grade-schooler at recess. Play and master your controls and balance.

3. You Can Master GPS

Approaching a motorcycle GPS unit for the first time, and sometimes the 50th time, as in my former case, is intimidating. To break the mindset hurdle, throw away the technical jargon of waypoints and creating GPX files, and simply experiment.

Once you get comfortable with the basic functions of the GPS, as simple as entering a destination and finding gas stations along the route, the more technical aspects become more approachable.

Also, take your unit outside with you for a GPS signal, and watch some YouTube videos. There are definitely multiple videos available for your motorcycle-specific GPS. Being hands-on will help change your mindset and ease the struggles.

Also, if you participate in group rides, a few GPS experts will be there. Ask them questions; most riders love to share their knowledge of how to best utilize a GPS.

4. You Can Properly Load Your Bike

A properly loaded bike changes the happiness of the ride, and quickly. The issue is most just think they know how to load a bike, and this is due to their fixed mindset that just thinks it’s OK. But many are wrong.

The key phrase here is the center of gravity. Most adventure bikes have higher ground clearance, which means the center of gravity is higher. The higher the center of gravity, the heavier the bike will feel because when weight is higher, the bike will lose balance quicker.

This is why standing on the pegs is important for lowering your center of gravity, which will keep your bike balanced easier. It sounds counterintuitive to some because your body is actually higher, but all the weight is on the pegs, centralizing more weight lower, which allows you to control the bike easier. (Want to geek out? Read this Kevin Cameron article on Center of Gravity Myths).

The same is the concept for loading a bike. You want to keep the weight low and balanced from side to side. Pack heavier items at the bottom of the bags and in the panniers. If you use a rollbag on the rear or a tail pack, try to keep lighter items up top, and also balanced from left to right.

Example: keep a tent at the bottom of one pannier, and your liquid drinks at the bottom of the other pannier. Balance the weight of the remaining items between the two panniers. Place all lighter items such as clothes and dry foods in the rear case.

Proper loading can prevent you from stupid crashes where you are forced to make quick steering, throttle, or braking input—especially at slower speeds off-road.

Change your mindset to always load your bike correctly, and never leave things to chance. Your bike’s handling should immediately tell you if things are unbalanced—just as low pressure in a tire would also quickly translate that your bike is not right.

Speaking of PSI, always check daily before each ride, and always compensate for added weight on the motorcycle based on the manufacturer’s recommendations.

5. Make Time to Ride More

Everyone complains about not finding enough time to ride, but that can be changed. Yes—not finding time to ride more, but making time to ride more. This is a moto mindset change that will surely make you happier than most.

I schedule time for riding as I do for work assignments. This includes scheduled daily “lunch” rides to get out on the local trails or roads, even if they are only 20-minute treks. This also goes for riding motorcycles to work, rain or not. Once you begin the practice, it becomes simpler and simpler to find more time to ride.

Embrace these moto mindsets, and you’ll spend more time in that proverbial saddle. And the normal outcome of more adventure riding time is more happiness, something everyone can use more of nowadays.