1. Pamir Highway (M41) – Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan (above)

The Pamir Highway, often referred to as the “Roof of the World,” is one of the most remote and challenging roads in the world. Stretching from Dushanbe in Tajikistan to Osh in Kyrgyzstan, it takes riders through the high-altitude landscapes of the Pamirs, crossing the towering Ak-Baital Pass at over 4,650 meters. The ride features a mix of broken pavement, rocky gravel, and long stretches with little to no fuel stops or cell coverage. Despite the hardships, riders are rewarded with jaw-dropping views, encounters with nomadic communities, and a rare feeling of pure solitude.

• Distance:~1,250 km (777 mi)
• Route:Dushanbe → Khorog → Murghab → Sary-Tash
• Elevation:Peaks at 4,655 m (Ak-Baital Pass)
• Terrain:Mostly paved but rough; expect potholes, gravel, and landslides.
• Best Time to Go:June–September
• Challenges:High altitude, fuel scarcity, cold nights.
• Highlights:Wakhan Valley, Soviet outposts, mountain deserts.

 

 

 

 

2. Ruta 40 – Argentina (above)

Ruta 40 is a legendary ride that slices down the spine of Argentina, skirting the Andes for over 5,000 kilometers. It’s one of the longest roads in the world and offers a wild variety of landscapes—from the high-altitude deserts of the north to the glacial expanses of Patagonia in the south. Riders traverse barren steppe, ancient Incan ruins, wine valleys, and remote outposts where guanacos and condors are your only companions. It’s a dream ride for those craving adventure, isolation, and a sense of endless horizon.

• Distance:~5,200 km (3,230 mi)
• Route:La Quiaca → Mendoza → Bariloche → El Calafate → Rio Gallegos
• Terrain:Mix of tarmac, gravel, and remote stretches
• Best Time to Go:October–April
• Highlights:Andes views, Patagonian steppe, glaciers, Gaucho culture
• Tips:Wind can be brutal in Patagonia—pack accordingly.

 

 

 

 

3. Transfăgărășan Highway – Romania (above)

Winding its way through the Făgăraș Mountains, the Transfăgărășan Highway is Romania’s crown jewel of tarmac. Famously dubbed “the best driving road in the world” by Top Gear, this 90 km stretch is packed with serpentine curves, steep inclines, and alpine switchbacks. Carved into the mountains by dictator Ceaușescu in the 1970s, it cuts through tunnels and passes shimmering lakes. It’s a short but intense ride, perfect for thrill-seekers with a taste for dramatic scenery and buttery-smooth bends.

• Distance:~90 km (56 mi)
• Route:Bascov → Căpățânenii Ungureni → Bâlea Lake → Cârțișoara
• Best Time to Go:July–October
• Highlights:Bâlea Lake, tunnels, sheer drops, and Dracula’s Castle nearby
• Notes:It’s a summer-only route—closed due to snow in winter.

 

 

 

 

Phot0 by : Helge Pedersen

4 – The Silk Road – Central Asia (above)

Riding the ancient Silk Road is like motorcycling through a living history book. Spanning thousands of kilometers across Central Asia, this route threads together the cultural riches of China, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and beyond. Riders pass through the blue domes of Samarkand, the rugged Tian Shan mountains, and windswept desert roads dotted with camel caravans and ancient caravanserais. The terrain varies from well-paved highways to rugged backroads, making it a true transcontinental adventure.

• Distance:Variable (~4,000+ km)
• Sample Route:Xi’an (China) → Kashgar → Samarkand → Bukhara → Tehran
• Best Time to Go:April–October
• Highlights:Ancient cities, mountain passes, deserts, caravanserais
• Challenges:Border bureaucracy, fuel access, extreme climates

 

 

 

 

Photo by Lee Klancher

5. Dalton Highway – Alaska, USA (above)

The Dalton Highway is one of the most remote and exhilarating roads in North America. Originally built to support the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, it stretches from Fairbanks to Deadhorse on the edge of the Arctic Ocean. Gravel dominates the route, which winds through vast forests, tundra, and arctic plains. It’s notorious for its isolation, unpredictable weather, and slippery surfaces. Reaching Prudhoe Bay feels like conquering the end of the Earth—an adventure motorcyclist’s rite of passage.

• Distance:~666 km (414 mi)
• Route:Fairbanks → Coldfoot → Deadhorse (Prudhoe Bay)
• Best Time to Go:June–August
• Highlights:Arctic Circle, pipeline, Alaskan wilderness
• Warnings:Slippery when wet; services are few and far between

 

 

 

 

6. Karakoram Highway – Pakistan to China (above)

Dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World,” the Karakoram Highway connects Pakistan and China via the Khunjerab Pass, one of the highest paved international border crossings in the world. The road takes riders through the spectacular Hunza Valley, past ancient fortresses and glaciers that pour off the Karakoram Range. It’s a dramatic clash of nature and civilization where avalanches, landslides, and high-altitude roads keep adrenaline levels high.

• Distance:~1,300 km (810 mi)
• Route:Islamabad → Gilgit → Hunza Valley → Khunjerab Pass → Kashgar
• Elevation:Peaks at 4,693 m at Khunjerab Pass
• Best Time to Go:May–October
• Highlights:Baltit Fort, glaciers, the Indus River canyon
• Safety Note:Road conditions and landslides can be hazardous.

 

 

 

 

7. Garden Route – South Africa (above)

The Garden Route is a lush, ocean-hugging journey along South Africa’s southern coast. Known for its striking scenery, this relatively short ride from Mossel Bay to Storms River offers dense forests, mountain passes, golden beaches, and the chance to spot elephants, whales, and ostriches along the way. With smooth roads and abundant accommodation options, it’s ideal for riders who want nature and comfort in equal measure.

• Distance:~300 km (190 mi)
• Route:Mossel Bay → Knysna → Plettenberg Bay → Tsitsikamma
• Best Time to Go:September–April
• Highlights:Wildlife, coastlines, forests, ostrich farms

 

 

 

 

8. Mae Hong Son Loop – Thailand (above)

Twisting through the jungled hills of northern Thailand, the Mae Hong Son Loop is a motorcyclist’s playground, boasting over 1,800 curves in just 600 kilometers. Starting and ending in Chiang Mai, this route passes through Pai, Mae Hong Son, and peaceful countryside peppered with waterfalls, temples, and hot springs. It’s a rider-friendly loop, especially popular with lightweight dual-sport or touring bikes, and offers a unique blend of adventure and comfort.

• Distance:~600 km (373 mi)
• Route:Chiang Mai → Pai → Mae Hong Son → Mae Sariang → Chiang Mai
• Best Time to Go:November–February (cool season)
• Highlights:1,864 curves, rice fields, hot springs, Thai hill tribes
• Tips:Great for mid-level riders and 250cc+ bikes

 

 

 

 

9. Great Ocean Road – Australia (above)

One of the most iconic coastal drives in the world, Australia’s Great Ocean Road is a thrilling stretch of tarmac along cliffs that plunge into the Southern Ocean. This ride is a sensory overload with every turn—thundering surf, eucalyptus forests, koalas overhead, and the towering Twelve Apostles rock formations. Though it’s only 240 km long, its sweeping bends, clean pavement, and countless viewpoints make it ideal for a relaxed, scenic motorcycle journey.

• Distance:~240 km (150 mi)
• Route:Torquay → Lorne → Apollo Bay → Port Campbell
• Best Time to Go:November–April
• Highlights:Twelve Apostles, ocean cliffs, rainforest detours
• Road Quality:Excellent tarmac; watch for tourists and wildlife.

 

 

 

 

Photo by Vargis Khan

10. Manali to Leh Highway – India (above)

The ride from Manali to Leh is one of the most breathtaking and challenging journeys in the Himalayas. At nearly 5,300 meters at its highest pass, the route traverses some of the harshest conditions on earth: freezing river crossings, loose scree, snow-melt torrents, and thin oxygen levels. But the reward is immense—moonlike landscapes, Tibetan monasteries, and soul-stirring views that feel otherworldly. This is a pilgrimage route for any serious adventure motorcyclist.

• Distance:~490 km (300 mi)
• Route:Manali → Sarchu → Pang → Leh
• Elevation:Peaks at 5,328 m (Tanglang La Pass)
• Best Time to Go:June–September
• Highlights:Monasteries, passes, high-altitude lakes
• Challenges:Altitude sickness, river crossings, landslides

Gear up for all of your adventures great and small with parts, gear and accessories from Touratech. 

 

The GTTSW is a fantastic opportunity for riders to hit the trail and hone their skills as riding season kicks in. Attendees will ride routes created by pros, shop moto-vendors, register for rider training, enjoy regional cuisine, and share stories around the campfire while local bands set the tone.

“Austin Moto Adventures is extremely excited to partner with Touratech on GTTSW.  The combination of Touratech’s  quality of products and industry reach along with our pursuit of excellence and extreme hospitality for all of our guests is going to be a powerful force for this and many future events.  We are proud to partner with Touratech, especially so early in the life of the Austin Moto Adventures.” – Rosson Richardson, CEO, Austin Moto Adventures

The Great TouraTexas Spring Warm-Up from Touratech USA and Austin Moto Adventures is going to be a Texas-Sized kickoff to spring and summer 2024. The ranch has a limited number of cabins available to rent and plenty of space for tent camping, RVs, and trailers. There are also a lot of volunteer positions available.

Register for The Great TouraTexas Warm-Up Here!

The Touratech Rally began in 2012 as a small customer-appreciation weekend that involved riding, camping and sharing good times around the campfire. With this simple formula, and a whole lot of fun, it’s grown into the largest gathering of Adventure Motorcycle enthusiasts in the country.

It happens the last full weekend in June every year. Full weekend means that if the weekend starts in June and ends in July, we rallied the week before.

While the core of the event has stayed the same, each year we find new ways to pack in even more fun activities & experiences:

• Enjoy rides where you will explore twisty mountain dirt roads with breathtaking vistas in the heart of the Cascade Mountains. We’ll offer at least eight different route options on Friday and Saturday. The routes are designed to have something for everyone. ​

•Factory DEMO Rides are available!

• Learn tips and tricks from adventure experts during onsite clinics and classes or take inspiration from presentations by fascinating motorcycle travelers. • Improve your off-road skills with a rider-training course taught by world-class instructors. Four different riding schools will be offering on-site training classes for an extra fee. • Test-ride the latest models of adventure motorcycles from factory demo trucks.

• Meet moto-venders with goods and services geared towards you and win raffle prizes from Touratech and other companies.

• Enjoy evening campfires and hang out with Touratech staff and friends on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. • Show off your mad bike-handling skills and take home the coveted trophy in our annual Slow Race or ADV Challenge competitions. The most fun might just be spectating the competition with friends.

• Park your bike and pitch a tent in the grassy camping area onsite, or reserve space in the RV lot, rent a nearby cabin with friends, or book a room in Leavenworth.

• Most people ride to the event, but there is no shame in hauling out the toys on a trailer, you’ll just have to park it in the RV lot. Well, perhaps there is a little shame.

• We won’t feed you, but the on-site food trucks and restaurant across the street will… and their food is delicious. You can also grab cold beverages, ice, and basic provisions at the grocery or hardware store located right there.

• You can gas up your motorcycle just a stone’s throw from the event. Plan to do it before 8 pm when they close so you are ready to ride the routes in the morning.

www.touratechrally.com

Purging the old oil and nitrogen prior to disassembly.

 

 

As soon as we got home, I gave the folks at Touratech USA a call. Back then as now, Touratech offers high-end Extreme front and rear shocks developed in Germany and built in the Netherlands by TracTive for 2007-2013 BMW oil-cooled R 1200 GS models. Although there’s more emphasis on the company’s replacement shocks with electronic suspension adjustment (ESA) these days, Touratech still sells and services TracTive Extreme components for many ADV bikes. These components are popular among riders who like to “geek out” on manually set suspension settings and get more in touch with their bike.

 

 

 

After 10,000 miles, the old shock oil (on left) didn’t look too bad compared to the new slippery stuff.

 

 

Once I mounted up the Extreme shocks on my Beemer, I couldn’t have been more pleased. I wrote a full Touratech motorcycle suspension review for Rider in 2013, including a complete rundown of the shocks’ specs and features.

Suffice it to say that the rear Extreme shock solved all my load carrying and handling problems and gave the bike a much better ride to boot. For that 2013 review, however, I wasn’t aware that Touratech specifies “regular” service intervals for its Extreme shocks. That makes sense; unlike the stock shock, as usual a poor compromise between performance and longevity, better performance means using parts that may wear. For comparison, rock-hard stock tires (a.k.a. rim protectors) versus premium replacement rubber with good grip but less longevity come to mind.

 

 

The complete set of disassembled shock parts laid out for inspection. Mine also needed a new seal head and bump stop.

 

 

Touratech says that whether it’s time for shock service at 10,000 miles or 30,000 miles really depends upon how hard the shock is used and how concerned the owner may be about preventing problems on a long remote ride. Over time, shock oil breaks down and gets contaminated, seals wear, and nitrogen pressure decreases, all leading to reduced performance and longevity issues, and you don’t want to damage something like the shock shaft, for example, by waiting too long. If you’re the type who’d rather not make the call, Touratech recommends two years or 20,000 miles on its Suspension Service Center website.

In my case, the first interval turned out to be almost exactly 10,000 miles when I noticed that the lower shock seal was weeping oil – the first stage in the “weeping, seeping, leaking” progression from bad to worse. An hour later, I had the shock boxed up and ready to ship to Touratech in Seattle. Once service is complete, return shipping is included in the $150 fee ($200 for ESA shocks). In my case, it was Touratech’s slower season, so the turnaround time was only about two weeks, but it can take up to five at busier times.

 

 

              The old parts were returned neatly packaged along with the fully serviced shock –

impressive. Ready for 10,000 to 30,000 more miles.

 

 

For this conventional shock service, Nick at Touratech disassembled, cleaned, and inspected the shock body and shaft, preload adjuster, damping piston, and shims. Replacing the damping piston ring is included. If any other worn or damaged parts need replacing (like the bump stop and seal head on my shock), Touratech only charges the cost of the parts – all labor is included. The remote reservoir did not need servicing, but oddly, the retainer ring for the lower clevis had come partially adrift, so Nick replaced the lower clevis, retainer ring, and circlip for good measure. The gang at Touratech had never seen this happen before; must have been that big jump…

Once the shock was reassembled with fresh oil and nitrogen, Nick carefully boxed it up and shipped it back, and I was riding the BMW again within three weeks. Although I hadn’t noticed any degradation in performance before it was serviced, the rear suspension felt firm, supple, and controlled, as good as the first day I installed the Extreme shock back in 2013.

Touratech also changes shock springs and services its electronic shocks and fork cartridges, all at a reasonable cost with free return shipping – all good reasons to consider putting its suspension products on your ADV bike in the first place.

For more information about Touratech Suspension, visit the Touratech website. 

Find more great reviews from Rider Magazine!

Day 2 starts early with Moto Movement and Mindfulness Yoga at 7AM. Rides begin at 8AM and Demo’s begin at 9AM and continue until 5PM. Presentations and workshops will run all day in multiple onsite venues and touch upon everything from first-aid to proper packing and cooking tips. Moto-pro, Jesse Murphy will be sharing his expertise again this year with his popular brake system workshop and vision clinic. The evening is begins with the Challenge Course competition followed by the star of the popular Youtube series and BDR videographer, Sterling Noren sharing some stories of his ADV life along with images and video. At the same time, another popular rider and YouTuber, the highly entertaining Dork in the Road is hosting a get together in the Rally Tent. You will have to make some tough entertainment choices!

 

 

Day 3 is even more packed than Day 2 was with everything from Survival Skills Training and Field Hygiene to Camping Basics with Amanda Zito and a truly inspirational story from rally emcee and world traveler, David Bailey! BDR President Tim James and Executive Director, Inna Thorn will be on-hand to preview upcoming routes and share cool behind-the-scenes insights on Backcountry Discovery Routes. SheADV is bringing the popular Iron Chef ADV Cooking completion back to the MainStage this year and the world famous Slow Race, hosted by Jimmy Lewis is back again.  Dakar Rider Paul Neff is going to join us and give us all of the details about his incredible journey to Dakar and his experience at the famous race earlier this year! We’re also excited to have live music with popular local singer/songwriter, Chris Ward to close the weekend!

 

We’re really excited to have Rever joining us this year to facilitate downloading of the Touratech Rally Tracks into GPS units or the Rever app and they’ve also put together a Rally Challenge that will involve geo-tags and riding to specific waypoints with an opportunity to win a big-time prize! We’ve only touched on a few highlights of the schedule, but there is so much more to the rally this year including more moto-vendors than ever before!  We hope to see you there!!!

See the complete schedule at touratechrally.com

 

Adventure bikes didn’t interest me until 2010. Until then, I spent most of my moto life riding sportbikes and training/testing on road-racing circuits.

Due to my past, transitioning into the ADV world arrived with multiple challenges.

Two initially stick out—retraining a mindset that only focused on road-racing techniques and the psychological challenge of riding larger ADV bikes off-road. Then came the challenge of swapping between the on- and off-road techniques without a conscious effort.

While already into my 30s, I skipped the usual learning on a smaller off-road bike. Instead, I went big—and super heavy—with a 2002 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000. This bike’s design catered to comfortable upright touring with a few gravel roads here and there. This to me was the perfect platform to truly build skill upon as I tested the ADV scene out, seeing if it was a good fit for my passion-driven moto lifestyle. If not, I thought it’d make a good plow or snow bike.

After my first tour, which included many fire roads, I was more than obsessed. I modded the V-Strom heavily, and after a two years of disciplined self-training through books and videos and classes with the RawHyde Adventures and Jimmy Lewis, I could comfortably take the Strom off the road without worry.

I still have the same love for sportbikes, though, so my current training involves practicing both on- and off-road techniques to ride bigger adventure bikes safer and faster. Nowadays, my ride is the KTM 1190 Adventure R, which to me is the best outright big ADV available.

Most ADV riders I encounter, whether on a new local group ride or big adventure rally, arrive from an off-road background. And when we’re ripping country asphalt, questions surface about my on-road riding style on the bigger adventure touring bike.

The following are the first techniques I discuss, each arriving from the world of sportbikes and road racing.

A quick note: These techniques are best for bigger adventure bikes (BMW R 1250 GS, KTM 1290 Adventure, Triumph Tiger 1200, etc.) shod with at least 50/50 (50 percent on-road, 50 percent off-road) or more street-oriented adventure motorcycle tires. These modern ADV tires offer more traction and feel on-road than a full-out sport tire did 20 years ago. Adventure-motorcycle tire technology improves yearly, allowing riders like me who crave ultimate confidence on and off the road to push the limits further.

I’ve spent the past two years testing multiple 50/50 tires, from the Continential TKC80 to the Bridgestone AX41 to Pirelli Scorpion Rallye STR to the Dunlop Trailmax Mission, and continue to question how they are so good at sportbike speeds and, after taking out a few PSI, super-capable off-road.

With that note aside, the following are some simple strategies borrowed from the sportbike/road-racing world that will help you ride faster on the asphalt and safer.

 

 

 

 

1. Seating Position

Optimal body position, or BP, begins with the optimal seating position for road riding. Most off-road riders learn to sit close to the gas tank due to the bike’s design, but this position can harm your sport-focused on-road performance for bigger adventure bikes.

The goal is to have a comfortable position that assists with the finesse of your hand controls—throttle, front brake, clutch, and pushing/pulling handlebar inputs.

The ideal position? Not too far from the gas tank and not too far away—say about an inch or two, although every rider’s preference will differ based on arm and torso length. While wearing riding gloves, I put all my fingers together, press my thumb against my middle, and ring fingers as an Italian would say when saying “delizioso” about food. Then I stick that between the tank and myself. This distance has worked over and over on numerous motorcycles, from my 1190 R to my Multistrada to dozens of sportbikes I’ve tested throughout the years.

Never be glued to the tank or sitting too far back; it won’t allow you to move across the seat while transitioning weight, and it will create unsmooth inputs to your controls.

 

 

2. Proper Finger and Feet Positioning

The next thing to tweak is your fingers and feet’ positions. This is a natural practice for many dual-sport riders, so I won’t’ waste much time here.

Two fingers on the brake allow more than enough power to brake hard, but also finely tune braking inputs during trail braking and throttle maintenance (discussed more below), and when blipping the throttle under braking to rev-match your engine rpm to the speed, so you don’t lock up the rear tire (yes—auto-blippers are typical on many modern ADV bikes, but I will also match-rev my throttle inputs to speed).

I also use only two fingers on the clutch, which helps with slipping the clutch off-road in slow maneuvers and downshifting while blipping the throttle during on-road situations.

The same goes for the feet—many enduro riders stand on the pegs using the balls of their feet (just behind the toes) but fail to do so while sitting. Keep the balls of your feet on the pegs during road riding, which allows you to smoothly transition from side to side and slide across the seat while weighing the inside peg (more below). This also keeps your toes from whacking the pavement in sharp corners, which can upset your chassis and startle you, prompting a crash.

 

 

3. More Body Position, Less Lean Angle

Speaking about moving across the seat, this is where one of the largest discrepancies arrives when riding on the street versus the dirt. We keep our body upright on an enduro and lean the bike into the turns, allowing the knobbies to bite into the loose dirt/gravel/sand for tracking.

But on the street, we want to keep the bike as upright as possible and move our weight into the corner. This keeps the tire wider and provides more traction on the asphalt.

When heading into a corner, you first want to look where you’re going, keeping your head “in the mirror” or moving off the bike’s center and into the direction you’re going. You then slide your butt a bit off the seat into the direction of the turn and weigh the inside peg (the one going into the turn). This is the total opposite of riding in the dirt, where you want to weigh the outside peg to retain the most traction as you allow the knobbies to bite into the loose ground.

Due to the modern tires and the amazing modern adventure touring chassis setups, you don’t have to lean off MotoGP-style. Just enough to help keep as much rubber on the asphalt as possible—even if only an inch or so to the left or right.  Too much leaning input not only looks dumb, but it can upset your chassis quicker, causing you the crash.

Remember this in wet conditions, especially. Proper body position can save from crashing.

Again, the more rubber on the ground, the better. And the modern 50/50 tire designs keep you planted.

 

 

4. Trail Braking

This is a concept that can again save your life while making your ride much faster and smoother.

Trail braking simply means trailing off the brakes as your bike slows, leans, and turns through a corner. To slow your ADV machine, you do most of your hard braking while the bike is upright, and there’s a much larger tire contact patch. As you start leaning and turning, you gradually “trail” the brakes, reducing pressure as you corner and the lean angle becomes stronger.

I tend to trail brake until I reach the apex of a corner, and from there, I get off the brake completely and start smoothly rolling on the throttle to WOT if needed (or warranted).

This is where throttle maintenance comes into play, also. When reducing lean and steering inputs, you want to gradually roll your throttle on until enough contact patch is big enough to crank on the throttle more. If you give too much input, you’ll lose traction and high-side—something no ADV rider wants.

 

 

5. Throttle Maintenance and Braking Inputs

For ultimate speed and control of the bike, the goal is NEVER to have any idle time—you’re either on the throttle for maintenance or speed or on the brakes. When no inputs are provided, you have no control, which is when crashes happen. You always want control over what your suspension and drive train are doing.

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• On the front brake: The front tire is loaded, and suspension is compressed, giving you firm control of the asphalt and more traction.
• On the throttle: rear suspension is loaded, rear tire contact is larger, and there’s less control of the steering inputs because the front suspension is unloaded and the front end lighter, reducing tire traction.
• Maintenance throttle: this keeps the chain tight and the suspension from diving forward or unloading, providing optimal traction in front and rear.
• On the rear brake: The rear tire and suspension loads, providing additional traction out back. Light use of the rear brake can be a lifesaver, especially when you’re carrying too much speed in a corner and are going wide, about to go over the double yellow or centerline. Lightly using the rear brake—with finesse—can tighten your line while maintenance throttle is in use. \

On the topic of brakes, many sportbike newbies only use a front brake, rarely touching the rear brake. This is wrong. For emergency stops, just as in the dirt, using both front and rear brakes will help you stop MUCH quicker. The same is for the street.

And optimizing your rear brake use can help in multiple ways. It can help slow easily; keep the suspension even when stopping (passengers love this because there’s no dive!), and help tighten a line on the street or scrub speed, as I explained above. This is a great technique to keep you safe and fast while traveling in Europe, where the decreasing radius and tight turns are encountered often.

Also, when having to emergency brake, always use both brakes. This is why the best ADV riders practice technique often both on and off the road. Different inputs are needed for both riding situations, so know your ability and your bike’s ability well by practicing constantly.

 

 

6. Wide, Deep, and Late

I learned this technique at Aaron Stevenson’s Cornerspeed school in the early 2000s. If you want to be quick and safe when encountering the numerous blind corners in real-world riding, remember three words when cornering: Wide, Deep, and Late.

The concept is simple and preps you for any dangers that may be present on the road. For example, if you’re heading into a blind right corner with some speed, make your line wider and deeper by riding closer to the centerline, then turn later when you have the clearest vision of what’s ahead.

This simple practice allows you to see first, then choose a different line if something is obstructing the roadway or a car is coming over the yellow line.

 

 

7. Look Further Ahead and Scan More

Due to the typical slower speeds on the trails, looking far ahead becomes natural. But on the street, when speeds are cranking, you should learn to look even farther ahead.

The farther you look, the larger the picture, and the more things in front of you slow down. This allows you to see threats—oncoming cars, potholes, something on the road like slick spots or animals—sooner and have more time to react. This also allows you to notice opportunities like giving more throttle input or setting some imaginary braking markers as a turn approaches, which keeps you safer and faster.

Besides looking farther ahead due to increased speed, you should also learn to scan your eyes more often. Not drastically, but smoothly, searching wider side-to-side to notice any threats and have enough time to use the proper input of controls.

Looking farther ahead and scanning more is all about being a more proactive rider. And a proactive rider is a much safer rider than one who needs to react quickly to an unknown circumstance that can send you sailing.

For many big-bike adventure riders who come from a dirt background, mastering safety and speed off-road becomes an obsession. Many also want to master this on the road but quickly realize after a few “oh-shit” moments—or crashes—that those off-road techniques don’t work on the street.

But with some practice of the above techniques, riders can build the optimal skills needed to pilot their adventure bikes safer and faster on the asphalt. The only next step is to have the mindset to switch between both skillsets when required, which will take additional time on the bike, practicing both on and off the road. That equates to rider more, something passionate riders never complain about.

 

TOURATECH-USA

Upgrading your suspension is the single biggest improvement you can make to your BMW F850GS or Adventure. A truly plug & play system for the F850GS or ADV, Touratech Plug & Travel fully integrates into the stock wiring, giving you all the same controls and adjustments you’ve grown to love. On top of that, Touratech suspension adds high and low-speed compression damping adjustment along with many other features that will ensure your suspension takes you the distance no matter what the load or terrain. We recommend you hire an experienced mechanic to install your shocks, but if you’re diving in this video is a great guide.

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Hello, I’m Ian with Touratech-USA and today we’re going to be installing the Touratech plug and travel rear shock onto this BMW F 850 GS. The installation is pretty much the same between the F 850 GS, the F 850 GS Adventure, and the F 750 GS with just a couple of really small differences. But this video will be good to cover you, regardless of which one of those three bikes that you have.

So first thing we got to do is head over to the motorcycle with our key and verify what settings the ESA system is in. So I’m going to set this shock down and we’re going to get to work. The first step for this installation before we do anything else is going to be turning the bike on and verifying that the rear suspension is set in its minimum preload adjustment position, so that means just one helmet displayed on the dashboard. It’s pretty quick and easy to see. I’ll just turn the bike on here.

And one press on the ESA button. We’ve got single helmet mode here for the shock. The damping mode here, road or dynamic, doesn’t matter. We’re just going to leave it set on road. We need to disassemble some items on the bike in order to get to the shock to remove the factory suspension. So we’re going to remove the seat, the rear hanging mud fender, this plastic cover from both sides, and this chain guard here. I also might have to pull this heel protector off. I’m not quite sure yet, but we’ll figure it out as we go.

The clutch side cover is held on with one T-30 bolt in the middle and then a rubber push pin at the back here. This cover on the throttle side is held on with two bolts. There’s one here supporting the rear brake reservoir and then one in the center. On our bike, both of these use Torx T-30s when the two bolts are out, you pull out from the top. There’s a rubber push pin and then the cover comes right off.

The rear fender on this bike is held on with four bolts. Our bike has Touratech pannier racks on it and it’s easier to get this off if we just loosen the crossbar, so I pulled one bolt out and loosen the other side to let it drop down just a little. So this has two T-25 bolts on either side right here and then two T-30 bolts that are accessed from underneath. Once you pull those four bolts out, it just drops right down. This chain guard was held on with two Torx T-30 bolts. There’s one right back here and one here, right near the underside, the bottom of the shock. Once you have those two out, reach your hand under here and just give it a good tug. There’s a little plastic clip here that pops right out.

All right. Now we have the bike disassembled to the point where we can pull out the factory suspension. So we’re going to have to chase the wires, unhook the wires for the preload adjuster, the damping circuit, and then we’re going to pull out the shock absorber with the upper and lower mounts and then pull it out. So the first wire to disconnect is this one here coming out of the stock preload adjuster and you follow the connector to right here underneath the rear fender. There’s kind of a two step process here. If you use a pick and go right up here in the top of the plug, you can pry a little tab off side, which will allow the plug to slide free from the motorcycle. And then once you’ve done that, you can use the same pick to actually unplug the wires and separate the shock harness from the bike harness. Then here’s the tab to disconnect the harness from the shock and the bike right there.

So the wiring to disconnect the damping circuit is mounted up above the top of the shock absorber. And I’m going to try and drop the shock absorber out of the bike before I get to that connector, just to try and make it a little bit easier to reach. It’s mounted kind of underneath the gas tank, so if you don’t want to remove the gas tank, this might make it a little bit easier, but we’re going to find out. We can now remove the preload adjuster from the stock shock that’s held on by two T-30 Torx bolts and then we can remove the shock absorber itself. That’s held on with two T-55 Torx bolts, so big one at the bottom, big one at the top.

So I know this is really difficult to see, but to disconnect the wiring from the upper shock bolt, I’ve dropped the shock out and then chased the wires. And you can see there’s two plugs here. There’s one in the back right there and there’s one in the front. The one in the front is the shock wire and at the front of it, yeah we can’t see, at the front of it, there’s a button that we can push down. So with the shock lowered out of the way, I can actually get my hand in there and I’ll push the button. When I have it out, I’ll give you a better view of what it looks like.

All right. So now we’re making headway. If you look here at the plug, just like the plug for the preload adjuster, how you could disconnect it from on the bike, we did the same thing here. So it’s got this little tab right here that I push down with a pick and then it all slides toward the throttle side of the motorcycle and then it releases from the bracket that it’s in. And once we have it out, all we got to do is just push down the button right here and disconnect the shock from the bike harness. Like that.

Okay, now that we’ve got both of the wires disconnected, we have the preload adjuster disconnected and the upper and lower shock bolts out. We can just walk the shock right out of the bike this way.

All right. Hopefully you’re still with me. At this point, we now have the stock shock absorber removed from the motorcycle. Our shock has the Touratech progressive spring kit already installed on it, so the spring may look a little different than what you have, but the shock is exactly the same. So we’re going to set this aside and get to work installing the Touratech shock. So just like on the disassembly phase, I’m going to start by laying the shock roughly in position and then I’m going to hook up the damping wire, because it’s pretty difficult to reach with the shock in there. And then once I have this thing put away in its home, then I’m going to bolt the shock in and then work on mounting the preload adjuster. I recommend red loctite on both the upper and lower shock bolts. BMW clearly didn’t want these things to come out on accident and we don’t want them to either.

All right, now we have the shock installed on the bike, we have the wiring connector for the damping circuit connected back into its factory location, and we have the upper and lower shock bolts installed. Now is a great time to torque those shock bolts down. I torque them to 75 foot pounds. That works great for me.

Now it’s time to grab the two rubber isolators and the two stainless hose clamps to mount the preload adjustment motor on the sub-frame. It’s going to go roughly in the same position as the factory unit that we removed, but it doesn’t use that bolt-in assembly. It uses these isolators and clamps. These rubber isolators are a really tight fit on here, so I like to use just some soapy water to help them slide easily up the body of this thing. Before we mount the preload adjuster onto the sub-frame here, I’m going to unbolt the factory mount. This just gives us a lot more space to mount the Touratech preload adjuster. There are two Torx T-30 bolts holding this on.

All right. The preload adjuster motor is mounted firmly now using the stainless hose clamps and the rubber isolators. So it’s time to do cable management. The cable for the preload adjuster, we’re going to snake around the back following the same path that the factory one came out of, but this is obviously much longer, so we’re going to run it up here into the storage compartment underneath the passenger seat area. And then we’re going to mount the black box, the EPA controller. It’s going to go up there and then be connected to the factory wiring. For the damping circuit, that’s already plugged in. We just need to make sure that it runs through the same clips that the factory wiring had.

Once that’s all squared away, we’re going to grab the zip ties out of the kit and just make sure that everything’s tucked away where it needs to be and it’s safe away from danger of any moving parts catching it while we’re riding. Under the tail here, we’re going to run the Touratech wiring all the way around the corner, the way that the stock wiring went. And then it’s going to go up here through this hole and into the storage compartment under the seat.

We’re also going to find the lead from the factory connector, which is right here. And this is going to go up through this hole as well. Now it’s time to hook up the black box, the EPA controller, and it’s kind of a bear to reach everything up here underneath the seat storage area. So what I’ve done is I’ve pushed the single connector that goes to the stock wire harness. I’ve pushed it through the hole because it’s easier to reach everything down here, so I’m going to just connect the BMW factory harness to the Touratech EPA controller underneath the fender here.

And now I’ll be able to push that all back up through and work up at the top on everything else. All right, here we are underneath the seat of the bike and you can see I’ve got the EPA module here. I’ve got the one harness wire connected to the factory wire harness on the bike. And I have the two other wires hanging out here. This is the wiring harness that came off of the Touratech EPA motor, and it’s pretty clear here, one’s a four wire plug, one’s a two wire plug, so just hook them up.

All right. It’s checklist time. We’ve got the shock mounted. We have the EPA motor mounted. We have the wiring run for both the EPA motor and the damping circuit. The bolts are torqued down for the shock and all the wires are managed appropriately. So this bike is ready to be reassembled at this point, so that means we need to reconnect the crossbar on the back of the pannier rack. Again, you may not have to do that on your bike. Put the chain guard on. Put the right and left side covers on and then reinstall the seat.

So one thing that might save you guys some time, I’ll just bring it up here to make it more clear, the push pin piece that holds the chain guard on right at the front here, it’s a two piece unit and all you got to do to open it up is just push the center core out backwards from this pin. So when you’re ready to reassemble, just have the pin like this so you’ve got the little tab sticking out, push it in and then push the tab in flat. That’s how it works.

All right, this BMW F 850 is ready to ride. We’ve got the Touratech plug and travel shock installed on the back. And what that means is that all of the standard ESA adjustments are working exactly the same way they did with factory, but your comfort ride setting is a little bit more comfortable and your sporty ride setting is a little bit more sporty.

On top of that, you’ve got a custom spring now that’s appropriate for your weight, your riding style, and your luggage. And with this extra tool here, you’ve got two additional adjustments that you didn’t have on your old shock. You’ve got an adjustable high speed and low speed compression. If you want to learn more about how to tune that, please visit our Touratech blog. We did a great post describing all the different adjusters on the shocks and kind of giving you some guidelines about how to tune them. If you want to learn more about products we make for your bike, please visit our website Touratech-USA.com. And if you like this video, you want to see more like it, don’t forget to subscribe to the YouTube channel.

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Motorcycle Navigation GPS: Why Do You Need It?

While it’s understandable not wanting to buy another device when the phone in your pocket already has GPS built-in, the Garmin ZUMO XT, TomTom Rider 550, and others like it have capabilities far beyond what a phone can do.

A look around the internet, or even within the Touratech website, will fill you in on the technical details of what you get with motorcycle navigation GPS.

So, we’re leaving the technical bits out of this piece (for the most part). Instead, we’re going to focus on the practical reasons your phone’s not going to cut it, and a motorcycle GPS will.

Ready? Let’s begin with the whys:

 

 

 

Ready? Let’s begin with the whys:

 

• No cell reception: When your phone’s out of cell reception, you’re hosed. Since it doesn’t rely on cell towers, this alone is an excellent reason for ADV riders in the backcountry to use a motorcycle navigation GPS instead of a phone. I didn’t start riding religiously with a dedicated GPS unit until 2014. Before then it was all cell phones and maps. I got lost numerous times where cell reception wasn’t available, and nearly ran out of fuel a few times. The stories are good, but as I get older, I don’t want to deal with being lost or running out of fuel.

 

• Typical Digital suck: Sure, Google Maps is a great way to get turn-by-turn directions from your house to grandma’s, but you’ll find Google’s limits pretty quickly once you go off-road and to the middle of nowhere. Paper maps? Super cool for the Backcountry Discovery Routes, and other off-road issued ones, but I’ll pass. I do study those types of maps at home, and always keep one in the bags just in case my GPS explodes or something, but that’s about it. Gone are the folded maps in tank bags.

 

• Pre-loaded map files: This is a major advantage GPS devices have over phones. Many premium navigation units allow you to pre-load GPX map files that you can find online, pin waypoints and specific stops, and upload them directly to your GPS unit. Basically, you can have your entire trip planned out, stops and all, on-road and off-road, ready to go on your GPS unit, without having to worry about cell reception. A phone can’t do that. Also, many of the top units have curvy on-road presets. Plug in a destination, and you’ll discover roads you have never known before. This became one of my favorite features for on the road.

 

 

 

• Waterproof: Yes, many phones today claim to be waterproof, but the reality is they are mainly water-resistant. There’s a big difference. Phone makers aren’t anticipating that the people buying them plan to go adventure riding. Besides, do you really want to be exposing your phone to the elements like that? Torrential rains and big water crossings (and the potential of dropping your bike in said water crossing) all pose a serious threat to your phone. Remember, you’re putting your phone against your face to talk. A GPS device like the Garmin is built specifically for this purpose and is actually waterproof. Not water-resistant.

 

• Bigger screen: Any motorcycle-specific GPS worth looking at will have a big screen—bigger than a phone’s screen—so you can… look at it. Whether you’re traveling down the highway or navigating a trail, a screen that’s easier to see is just better.

 

• Less sun glare: Here’s one you may not have considered. Have you ever been outside and looked at your phone at the wrong angle and had the sun’s glare smack you right in the retinas? It’s blinding. A motorcycle-specific GPS was designed with one intention. A phone was designed to do many things. The ZUMO or TomTom have glare-resistant screens, so no matter which way the sun is pointed when you’re riding, you’ll be able to see the screen without blinding yourself.

 

• Glove-friendly: Don’t you hate it when you have to take your glove off to press a button on your phone? With a dedicated motorcycle GPS like the ZUMO XT, you don’t have to. Not only is the screen big, but it’s also glove-friendly, meaning you can still use the touchscreen display while keeping your gloves on.

 

• Stronger when you crash: If you’ve noticed a theme about motorcycle-specific GPS devices, it’s that they are designed for the task of being used in rugged conditions. Like riding an adventure bike. Not that we need to remind you, but adventure riding brings with it a decent chance of the bike falling down. Motorcycle GPS units are built with tougher cases and frames, to handle the impact of a fall better. Your phone? That thing breaks when it falls off the coffee table. Odds are you won’t want to risk breaking your phone off-road.

 

Why is GPS especially good for new riders?

The obvious reason is, so you don’t get lost. A motorcycle GPS, especially one built for going off-road, will also display popular trails or routes in the dirt that a phone won’t.

 

But even on-road a moto-GPS has benefits; it may do a better job highlighting major and/or sharp curves in the road and display a warning about slowing your speed, some can give you weather updates, allowing you to decide whether to continue or find a detour, and others give you live traffic updates so you can avoid those areas, if possible.

 

In regards to knowing what’s ahead, when I’m training or riding with buddies, I let them know that awareness about future corners can save lives.

 

 

What are the benefits of motorcycle GPS for group rides?

The benefits are huge! If everyone in the group has a motorcycle GPS (preferably the same one), they can all load the same map and be on the same page about where the group is going—especially off-road.

 

This is especially helpful for newer riders in the group, so they can go at their own pace and not feel the need to ride over their head and follow the more experienced riders. At the same time, the veteran riders at the front can also ride their ride without worrying (or worrying less) about the guys in the back getting lost (although this inevitably happens anyway).

 

Ninety percent of the rides I lead always ending up with less than five riders up front. It’s nice not to psychologically worry about the others getting lost—something that can keep you focused on the ride. And of course increased focus equals increased safety.

 

 

Should you fear learning the technical features of motorcycle GPS?

Of course not! The beauty of living in the digital age is that learning new technology is actually really easy. You can read the owner’s manual if you wish, but we’ve found it’s even easier to hop on YouTube and watch a tutorial.

 

There are zillions of videos on YouTube—at least one of them will certainly be about the GPS unit you have. There you can get a step-by-step walkthrough of the exact device you have, and even if you’ve figured out the basics of how your GPS works, odds are you can even learn something new.

 

I drive loads of traffic to these videos because there’s always something new to learn. And they continually get better every year.

 

As you can hopefully see by now, a motorcycle navigation GPS is a powerful tool that goes beyond what a phone can do—especially since we’re also talking about riding off-road.

 

Yes, they can offer basic turn-by-turn navigation like a phone, but they take it to the next level. High-end devices feature long-life batteries, barometric altimeters, and topographical maps to get as clear a picture about your route, its elevation, and even the weather, as possible. Some of these devices can also track your route and save it if you want to revisit it in the future or send it to your friends for them to try. Can your phone do that?

 

Convinced yet? We thought you would be. To learn more about all that motorcycle GPS devices have to offer, visit Touratech’s GPS page to see everything we offer and find one that suits your needs.

 

 

As we head into the 2022 riding season, adventure motorcycles are once again trending at a WOT pace with nearly every manufacturer offering one.

Even Harley-Davidson, for some the last manufacturer you’d think would launch an adventure bike, has entered the fray.

The appeal of adventure bikes is obvious. Not only do these machines let you endure long stretches on the back roads or highways in comfort, but when the pavement stops and the dirt begins, ADV bikes are ready for the challenge.

Just as motorcycling has caught up to the do-it-all nature of adventure bikes, helmet companies have to get in on the action too. But this poses a challenge.

Adventure helmets need to be able to provide the benefits of both road helmets and off-road helmets. How do you choose?

I’ll walk you through exactly what to look for in this guide. Beginning with some general topics, I’ll tell you what they mean and why they’re important.

 

 

 

 

First, What is an adventure helmet?

For most of the 1980s and 1990s, and well before, adventure riders would either wear a street helmet or a dirt helmet and modify as needed.

Road riders would sometimes pop off the faceshield on their street helmet and wear goggles once they got in the dirt, or they would wear their motocross helmet, goggles and all, and just build their neck muscles on the road when the wind would want to pull the beaks of their helmets towards the sky.

An adventure helmet bridges the gap between the two. It’s mostly shaped like a dirt helmet but with a faceshield built-in for road riding.

The shield is designed to go on and off easily and be replaced with goggles if you want. There are also modular helmets that flip up.

Modulars are super convenient, but there’s a minority that argues these lids are unsafe. Some say the split in the shell for the front to open harms the integrity of the lid.

I’ve known friends who have crashed with modulars and never had issues. And many of the top helmet manufacturers have put these through some serious testing with positive reviews. I have no worries about them and use modular lids often.

 

 

Adventure Helmet Guides: What to Look For

No matter what you’re looking for in an ADV helmet, the most important things are that it fits your head comfortably and meets all the required safety regulations (DOT approval!).

Your adventure helmet could have all the greatest features available, but it won’t do you any good if you don’t wear it because it’s uncomfortable.

With that said, here’s what to look for before purchasing an ADV lid.

 

Ventilation

If you’re riding on a hot day or just working up a sweat through a tough trail, you want as much airflow as possible.

If you’re wondering why some helmets cost considerably more than others, part of the reason is that these companies have put some thought and design work into flowing as much air as possible through their helmets.

A well-ventilated head will help keep you cool for longer. Studies have shown that once your head starts to overheat, the rest of the body won’t be far behind. And this is a huge safety risk.

 

 

Interior Liner

You’re going to be spending a lot of time inside that helmet, so the material actually touching your skin better be nice.

Most quality helmets use a material that wicks away sweat, so the incoming airflow will help cool you down. Also, a nice feature to have is a fully removable liner (some only offer removable cheek pads).

That way, when you’re done riding and the inside of your helmet is nasty—something that often happens for adventure riders—you can just toss the liner into the washing machine.

A fresh helmet helps keep a positive focus before starting any ride, and a fresh-smelling liner does this quickly.

 

 

Visor

Helmets arrive with a clear visor, which is nice for night riding or riding in adverse conditions, but a dark visor is a way to go for sunny days. Other helmets arrive with flip-down internal dark visors, which is a feature that makes riding life much simpler.

See for yourself how easy or hard it is to change faceshields. Make sure it has some sort of fog barrier, too. A PinLock system is the popular choice nowadays and is offered on the most reputable lids.

Also, look through the visor to make sure it’s optically correct. While rare, this condition does occur on some helmets. This can cause a loss of focus, increasing your risk of smashing into something.

 

 

Weight

Light makes right, as the saying goes. A heavy helmet is going to wear you out much faster over the course of a long ride than a lighter one. So keep that in mind.

The average weight of a size large adventure helmet is around 3 to 3.5 pounds. That’s light enough to keep your neck and shoulders from aching after a long day of riding.

 

 

Shape/Comfort

This one comes in two parts. The shape of an Adventure helmet could lean towards a road bias or a dirt bias, or fall somewhere in the middle. Regardless, every shape will prompt a different feel on the head.

This is a reason manufacturers like Arai offer their street lids in a few different sizes. Everyone’s noggin is different, so a helmet’s shape can be comfortable for one rider and horrible for another rider. This is why it’s always best to try on a helmet before purchasing one.

Also, going back to the fit category, make sure the helmet is comfortable. And not just for the few minutes you try it at the store. Try wearing it for as long as possible to find any uncomfortable spots, or “hot spots,” as most of these problem areas are called.

 

 

Goggles

Does the helmet allow you to wear them? Most do, but some may not. Or they may have a weird opening that might be too small for some goggles.

If you prefer goggles, make sure your helmet was designed for them.

 

Modular

I mentioned it earlier, but the modular option may be appealing for a lot of people. The option to flip up the chin bar will make it much easier to talk to people at a stop or while fueling up, take a drink, or just get some fresh air.

Again, some people argue the overall safety of a modular. They say because there’s a hinge in your helmet, it will never be as safe or robust as a non-modular helmet.

 

Price Point

This is the big one. How much are you willing to spend? Price points vary dramatically within the world of ADV lids, from $350 to over $1,000.

Fortunately, there are quality helmets at every price point. What you might give up by spending less are some of the creature comforts or slightly less ventilation.

 

And Remember The 5-Year Factor

How many years should you wear your helmet? The golden rule for motorcycle helmets is five years of manufacturer date. This is because a helmet’s shell naturally deteriorates over time from outside elements and simply time, which creates a safety hazard if you crash.

Most manufacturer’s dates are printed inside the shell or on the chin strap. If buying a used helmet, which is advised against because a helmet will naturally take on the shape of the previous rider, double-check that the lid is still in that window.

Know this factor also when buying bargain helmets online; contact the store and ask for a manufacturer’s date if you plan to keep it for a long time.

A happy adventure motorcyclist is a safe motorcyclist, and an essential portion of this safety factor is protecting your head with the proper helmet. But with so many choices available, finding the optimal lid takes some research.

This guide is designed to help minimize that research when you begin searching for your perfect lid. Happy ADV helmet shopping.

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