Have the right tools. How do you make sure? Use them in a garage tire change to verify it. The basics are; wrenches/sockets to remove the axel, wrench/socket for the rim lock, something to keep dirt out of the bearings, valve core remover, compact tire irons and a compact tire pump. An extra valve core and a valve stem nut can come in handy too.

How do you hold up the bike? What do you use for a stand? Or do you even need one? Logs are great, rocks can work and we’ve even laid a bike over on the side or dropped/ hung the bike on a ledge to allow easier wheel removal. The answer is to use what is available. Often a little hunting for a proper nature-made stand can really save time and effort. And remember the “balance” of the bike will drastically change when the wheel comes off, so expect that.

A great place to store the axle is in the muffler. Also, keep the loose parts away from the working area because we all know how hard it is to find parts that have been kicked or buried in the dirt or even worse sand.

The techniques for the actual tire change do not change on the trail. So if you do not have these techniques, they will not manifest in this time of need. So yes, practicing this in the garage is a good idea. If your tire requires breaking the bead off the rim, having specialty tire irons can go a long way. Or you can ride the flat tire till it breaks off the bead or becomes hot and easier to remove, yes we have done this in a pinch. If equipped, loosen the rim lock(s) first.

You can use a shop rag to keep dirt out of the wheel bearings, but there are some tough and compact changing mats that give you a much-improved workspace.

Since you should have knee protection on, put those knees to good use in keeping the tire down into the dish of the rim as you work. Do you take the tire off the rim or just replace the tube, out and in? It depends on the type of flat and if you need to be sure that whatever caused the original flat will not cause another one. If there is any doubt, take the tire off the rim to inspect and clean it out.

What do you put back in the tire? A new tube would be ideal, but out on the trail, the truthful answer is, whatever you have available. In order of preference, here is a list: new tube of the correct size, new tube of incorrect size (i.e. 21” front tube stuffed in the rear tire, that is why most riders carry only a spare front tube), or patch the flat tube. But wait, there’s more! If desperate, you can rely on the last resort/Hail Mary methods. We’ve pulled the part of the tube with the pinch in it, secured wire around the tube beneath the hole, and isolated the leak by twisting the wire tightly (it worked.) You can use heavy zip ties to secure a flat tire to the rim if no other solution is found. And we have even stuffed leaves and pine needles into a flat tire as sort of an “organic mousse.” When you’re screwed…Remember you could have been better prepared.

Understanding What You Need from an ADV Tire

There is no one perfect ADV tire on the market, plain and simple. Every adventure rider has his or her own idea of how and where their motorcycle should be ridden, and therefore tire choice will vary.

Think of it like this—if you plan on spending the majority if not all your riding time touring the asphalt roads across the country, the last thing you’d want is a deep set of knobbys. On the flip side, if tackling deep sand and mud is your jam, it’s best that you skip on a tire that only uses light tread.

How do you determine the amount of tread/knobby ratio that is correct for you? Following are the most common ratios below.

80% Street / 20% Dirt

As the category suggests, this type of tires put emphasis on on-road performance. Why exactly? 80/20 tires are designed with minimal tread, which promotes a high level of stability and grip in a variety of conditions you’ll find on the asphalt. Because of the lack of knobby, they’ll also roll smoother with less noise and vibration.

Want to tackle a moderate dirt section? 80/20s will be up to the task as long as you treat your riding inputs with respect. A handful of throttle or brake will cause the tire to break traction and put you on the ground. Deep sand, mud, or gravel will cause issues as well due to the lack of tread.

50% Street / 50% Dirt

 Designed to be the most versatile tires in the ADV market, 50/50 tires put equal emphasis on road and off-road performance. These have a considerable amount of tread, which will do an adequate job providing grip on both wet and dry asphalt.

That tread will go a long way in off-road performance too, with these tires possessing the capability to tackle moderate backroads with confidence. Consider them the jack of all trades.

It’s important to understand that just because 50/50 tires split on- and off-road performance equally, they aren’t the perfect adventure tire for everyone.

They will still suffer on dirt sections in comparison to off-road oriented tires, and likely wear out quicker than pure road tires. That said, these are a great choice if you’re looking for comfortable (but not superb) performance on and off-road.

40% Street / 60% Dirt

Similar in appearance to 50/50 tires, the 40/60s offer slightly more performance on the dirt thanks to sharper knobby edges, deeper tread, and often times softer rubber compounds. The off-road focus here will go a long way in performing in softer, deeper, loamier dirt; meaning you can take your backcountry ride a little bit further.

With that extra off-road emphasis, these tires will lose some of their performance on the asphalt. For example, these will produce more vibration, provide less feedback on twisty roads, and wear out sooner than 50/50s or 80/20s.

20% Street/ 80% Dirt

Ah, finally an aggressive knobby! 20/80s are designed with aggressive tread patterns and sharp knobby capable of handling technical off-road conditions. These are generally known as well-performing off-road tires that won’t get you into too much trouble on the road. They will, however, continue to wear out sooner than the tires listed above.

 

10% Street / 90% Dirt

Attention hardcore off-roaders, 10/90 tires are the choice for you. Large knobs mean second-to-none off-road capabilities—especially in heavy mud and sand—and can mean the difference between keeping your bike upright and sliding down the trail when things treacherous.

On the contrary, the on-road performance of 10/90 tires is lackluster in comparison to previous options. These are designed primarily for riders who do short stints of asphalt riding only to connect trail networks.

Choosing ADV Tire Compounds

If you’ve been in the market for motorcycle tires before, you’ve most likely seen various options of rubber compounds. But what exactly do they mean and how do they affect the tire’s performance? Again, it’s a tradeoff between grip and longevity.

Soft compounds are highly beneficial in providing better grip but are subject to quick wear. Harder compounds are the opposite. Tire constructed with a harder compound won’t stick as well as their competitors but will do a better job handling big miles.

Choosing between compounds comes down to understanding what you need of a tire. If trotting the globe on a single set of shoes is your goal, choose a hard compound. Need extra stick tires for technical riding? Soft compounds are the answer.

 

Tire Pressure – It’s Vital

Regardless of the tire, you decide to purchase, always remember to set the tire pressure to the manufacturers recommended setting.

Various constructions, compounds, and sizes warrant different tire pressures, and skewing too far away from the recommended pressures can compromise performance and safety.

 

TOURATECH-USA