In this video we walk you through the installation of the Touratech Steel Crash Bars for the Harley-Davidson Pan America.

While riding off road, standing on the pegs, or wearing heavy-duty boots, the rear brake pedal on the Harley Pan America can be hard to operate. This brake lever extension from Touratech increases the overal area of the stock Pan America rear brake pedal, while also making it 4mm taller for easier operation when standing. The aggressive serrations ensure you won’t lose your grip on the brake lever when you need it the most.

Versions are available for the standard Pan America, as well as the Special model Pan America. The brake pedal extension for the Pan America Special retains the original height adjustment from the factory.

FULL TRANSCRIPT:

Hello, and welcome to another Touratech product installation video. My name is Ian. And we are going to be installing the Touratech brake pedal extension piece.

For this bike, we have the adjustable height brake pedal, and this extension allows us to retain that factory functionality. It’s a pretty easy install, but there are a few pieces to it, so I always recommend going to the Touratech website first and downloading the product instructions. For this install, we’re going to need a 2.5 millimeter Allen wrench and some thread locker agent. So let’s grab the parts, grab the tools, head to the workbench, and start working on this part.

All right. These are all the main pieces of the Touratech brake pedal extension. You have the main component here. You have these two long hex nuts, two long M5 bolts, and two short M5 bolts. And then you have this backing plate right here. The way that I like to start installing it is to take the main piece right here, the two shorter bolts, and the two elongated nuts. Before I go any further, I put thread locking agent onto both or all four of the bolts. That way when it’s all installed, it sets up tight and they don’t rattle loose.

Once we’ve got the thread locker agent on there, which I’ve already done, I’m going to take one of the short bolts, put it through the top here, and then take one of the long nuts, and screw it onto the bolt. And then I’m just going to leave this finger tight. Now I’m going to grab the other short bolt, put it through here, and then grab the other long nut, and do the same thing. Screw it down finger tight. Now we’re going to head over to the motorcycle with all these pieces and get to work installing it.

All right. Here we are at the motorcycle. The way that I like to install this best is start with the brake pedal in the low position. Currently, this brake pedal’s in the high position. You can tell because the longer side here is at the back, so it’s adjusted to the low position by pulling out and rotating it until the long side is now forward. And we’re going to take the Touratech brake pedal extender and turn it so the long side is also forward, and then slide it up and jiggle it back and forth until it fits into the piece. Now that you’ve got that in place, you’re going to take this backing plate, rotate it so it follows the profile, and then put it in nose first so that that locking tab right there engages. And once you’ve done that, you can take the remaining… I’m using the long bolts, but you take the remaining bolts, drop them through the holes, and then thread them down into those elongated nuts.

Now grab your 2.5 millimeter Allen wrench and screw those down. At this point, you’ll notice that you don’t have to hold those long nuts because the spacing is exactly right so that the flat side of the nuts engages with the factory brake pedal. So we’ll just tighten these up lightly. They really do not take much torque. That’s what the thread locker’s for. Now that these two are tight, we’re going to adjust the brake pedal to the high position and tighten up those remaining two bolts.

All right. The installation of the brake pedal extension is complete. Now we’ve got a nice big foot bed to confidently hit that brake pedal, whether you’re on road or off road with the adjustable heights. If you have any questions about products we make for the Pan America or any other adventure bike, please visit our website to touratech-usa.com. Don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel. And as always, thank you for watching and enjoy the ride.

In this video we walk you through the installation of the Touratech Brake Fluid Reservoir Guard for the Harley-Davidson Pan America. Brake fluid is the life-blood of your Pan America’s braking system. Without it, nothing happens when you push on the brake lever coming into that hard right-hand corner.

With the rear brake reservoir exposed on the HD Pan America, it is far too easy to tamper with or damage while riding.

This easy to install guard from Touratech will keep your rear brake fluid reservoir safe from damage or curious hands, making sure your rear brake pedal is there when you need it.

See all Touratech products for the Harley-Davidson Pan America Here

In this video we walk you through the installation of the TFT Anti-Theft Guard & GPS Mounting Bracket for the Harley-Davidson Pan America.

TFT Display Anti-Theft Guard Prevent theft of the expensive and easy to remove TFT display on your Harley Davidson Pan America with this precision crafted guard from Touratech. Made of black-anodized, laser-cut aluminum, this guard reinforces the mounts of the TFT display while also providing an anti-glare visor to help with visibility.

GPS Mount for Harley Davidson Pan America Mount your GPS securely above your Pan America’s TFT display with this GPS mounting adapter from Touratech. With your navigation screen directly in the line of sight, you will no longer have to look down or to the side while you’re riding, greatly increasing safety while you travel.

Precision engineered, this adapter is manufactured in Germany by Touratech out of laser-cut stainless steel and aluminum. The bracket provides a 12mm (1/2″) crossbar right above your gauges, the perfect location for your GPS screen. The 12mm crossbar provides a robust mount for anyone our Touratech locking mounts.

FULL TRANSCRIPT:

Hello and welcome to a Touratech product install video. My name is Iain and we are going to be installing the TFT guard on this Harley Davidson Pan America. This guard goes around the stock instrument cluster, that nice screen in the dashboard, and it does two things. One, it makes it more difficult to remove from the motorcycle. And two, it gives you a nice sun shield here to help block glare while you’re riding the bike. This is actually a two for one install. At the same time, I’m going to be installing our GPS bracket adapter that puts a crossbar in the cockpit, up above the gauges. And if you are thinking about installing one or both of these parts, I highly recommend doing them at the same time because you have to use the same bolts over and over again. So let’s get the tools, let’s head to the bike, get to work.

The first step of this install is to remove the quick release headlight guard, if you have one installed, and then remove the faring shroud right here. This faring shroud is held in with four little rubber dots, two at the back top and two at the back bottom. So, you just pull gently forward to release the grommets. If you would like to, you can remove the wind screen at this point using these four bolts here. It’s not necessary to remove the windscreen, but if you’re concerned about scratching it, this is the time to do it.

With the faring removed, it’s time to take out these two bolts here at the bottom of the entire windscreen mount assembly. There are two exactly like it on the other side. You’ll use a Torx T-30 wrench to remove these.

Now, that you have the lower faring off, it’s time to remove the USB port and press in the connectors that are holding the dashboard in place. The USB port is removed by unscrewing the cap and then unscrewing the threaded nut that goes behind the cap like this. Now you can remove the cap and then just push the USB port into the dash. To disengage the connectors that hold the TFT dash on, I use an improvised punch, this is just a ratchet on the end of an extension and push in on this connector. That connector is exactly the same on both sides. When the dashboard is loose, you can tip it forward and disconnect the wires.

Now, that we have the dashboard and the USB port out, we can remove this entire front sub frame mount by removing these four bolts. There’s two on either side using a Torx T-30 wrench. With all four bolts out, the dashboard removed and the USB port unhooked, now we can just lift off the whole front sub frame.

All right, I’ve set myself up a nice soft workspace here so I don’t damage the windscreen at all and we’re going point of view to try and make this as clear as possible. So first thing to do is grab the dashboard here and we need to remove these connectors the rest of the way. So if they’re pulled through far enough, you can just wiggle them out with your finger like this. If they aren’t pulled through all the way, you’ll need to use your same improvised punch and just push them out the rest of the way. So the first thing to do is to assemble the GPS bracket adapter, it goes together like this with the aluminum crossbar and then these two big standoffs. And basically it’s going to assemble more or less like this here. First thing to do is to bolt the crossbar end using the two short button head bolts, you’re going to use a Torx T-20 to tighten those down and they come pre-locktighted from Germany. They got red locktight on them already.

Now, I’m going to loosely install the bolts that are going to hold the bottom of this bracket on right here. And in order to do that, I actually need to remove these lower bolts right here, one, two, like that. These two bolts right here are Torx T-25. Now we reinstall the Touratech bolts in these positions, these are also Torx T-25 bolts. With those two bolts in place sticking through long here, now we can rest the GPS bracket adapter over those bolts, it’ll help hold it in place. And now we’re going to start assembling the TFT guard and the dashboard itself, get it all sandwiched in here like that.

So there really is not a great way that I can figure out how to show how this all goes together, so just really be sure that you print out the instructions because the paper instructions have a drawing that shows the position of all the spacers, but we’ll do our best here. Take your large M6 bolt with a washer and then the TFT guard goes through here. Then you have to fish the washer in there. Then you grab one of these short fat spacers, you get it in there. And then as you can see, this bolt travels through washer, bracket, TFT guard, washer, spacer, and then it goes through the actual dashboard piece here like so, and then you get one of these long spacers like that. I don’t know if you can see this very well. But once we’ve got that all through, then we take one of these small M6 washers and an M6 nut and put them on the end of that long bolt. Just like that.

Now we have to do the same on the opposite side here. Also, before I forget, there’s little foam strips that come in the kit that are designed to be installed right here and right here, just to make sure that the GPS bracket doesn’t rub up against the sides of the dashboard screen. They’re just adhesive backed little pieces of foam like this and you just stick them on right there. So, I’ve assembled this on the bracket here to give you a better view of what it’s supposed to look like without the TFT dashboard actually installed. But you’ve got the long bolt going through here, a washer on the outside, then the TFT guard, then the bracket, then another washer, then the fat spacer, and then the skinny spacer, and then a washer and a nut. The TFT screen itself is actually going to mount right here on the skinny spacer on both sides. So you assemble it like that, obviously with the TFT guard in place.

All right, this is what the assembly looks like completed. You see we’ve got the screen protector for the TFT dash. We’ve got the sun shield on top and we have the GPS mounting bar up above that so that we can get the GPS up in our line of site. The GPS bar has no impact whatsoever on the adjustment of the windscreen. And now you can no longer remove the expensive dashboard here without any tools without having a key to the motorcycle. It’s all bolted in here underneath. So you can see the spacers going through everything, the nuts holding it all together. And then don’t forget, I didn’t cover it in the point of view video, but when we put those long bolts through the front here, there’s a large washer and a eight millimeter nyloc nut that has to go on either side.

Now that we’re reassembled like this, it’s time to go put it back on the motorcycle. Before we put any bolts in, it’s time to reconnect the electrical connector for the dashboard and reinsert the USB cable into the dash support here. So the USB cable just goes right into the hole there. It’s got a D cutout shape, so make sure it fits in the right orientation. And then the connector here just plugs right back into the bottom of the dashboard. Reattach the USB cable here by putting the cap back over it and then screwing on the threaded nut.

Now, you can reattach the entire front dashboard assembly with the four bolts here at the bottom, two on either side. A little bit of low strength thread locking agent on these bolts isn’t going to hurt anything. Now, you can reinstall the stock front faring piece by making sure that it’s engaged in all four of the rubber grommets, there’s two at the top and two at the bottom. And lastly, reinstall the quick release head leg guard. Here’s a cockpit view with the TFT guard installed with the sun visor on and the GPS bracket bar mounted up above the instrument cluster here. You can see how the GPS mount will now be right up in your line of sight while you’re riding the motorcycle.

And that wraps up the install of both the dashboard sun visor and anti theft device, as well as the GPS bracket adapter that puts the GPS unit up above the instrument cluster. I hope you enjoyed the install. I know it was a little hard to see in the middle there when we’re lining up all the spacers, but hopefully you get this part on no problem. If you have any more questions about products we make for the Pan America, please visit our website, Touratech-usa.com. If you like the video, subscribe to our YouTube channel. And as always, thank you for watching and enjoy the ride.

See our full line of products for the Harley-Davidson Pan America here

In this video we walk you through the installation of the Touratech Exhaust Header Guard for the Harley-Davidson Pan America.

Protect your Harley Davidson Pan America’s exposed exhaust header from rock dings, and other damage with this stainless steel guard from Touratech. The Pan America’s V-Twin power plant leaves one of the exhaust headers vulnerable to damage, as well as contact from your leg or boot. This easy to install guard will protect the exhaust and looks great on the side of the HD Pan America.

FULL TRANSCRIPT:

Hello and welcome to a Touratech product install video. My name is Ian, and today we’re going to be installing the exhaust header guard on this Harley-Davidson Pan America. Make sure that you get to the Touratech website and download the product instructions before you start. To complete this install, you’re going to need a Torx T-30 wrench and a flat blade screwdriver, or a 7mm socket. Let’s grab the parts and the tools and the instructions and get to work.

Over here at the bike, first thing, we have to remove this stock heat shield. It’s held on with two bolts that both use Torx T-30 heads. With the exhaust guard out of the way, we can orient the header guard and bend it a little bit so that it fits exactly with the profile and the bends in and out on the exhaust header. Once you’re happy with the shape of the guard, it’s time to lead the hose clamps through the cutout spots here and here in the exhaust header guard. On these hose clamps, you have the option of using a flat blade screwdriver in the slot or turning the entire head with a 7mm socket. Once you’re happy with the location of the exhaust header guard, reinstall the factory heat shield.

All right, now that I’ve got this installed, here’s a few tips just to make your install go a little bit more smoothly. On the lower clamp here, make sure that you have it installed around the header below the factory exhaust gas sensor. On the top clamp here, make sure that you have the header guard slid forward just enough so that the factory J-nut here for this bolt can go squarely over the hole. On my installation, it was trying to push that J-nut up just a little bit, so I had to hold it down. And then lastly, as you’re tightening these hose clamps, if you pay attention and bend the ends in right before they overlap with the actual guard itself, you can get them to tuck inside under the main piece of the guard. Keeps it looking really nice.

All right, that’s our install of the exhaust header guard on the Harley-Davidson Pan America. If you have any more questions about products that we make for the Pan America or any other adventure bike, please visit our website, Touratech-USA.com. As always, thanks for watching and enjoy the ride.

See our full line of Harley-Davidson Pan America Here

In this video we walk you through the installation of the Touratech Expedition Skid Plate for the Harley-Davidson Pan America.

For a big, powerful, adventure machine like the Harley Davidson Pan America, a robust skid plate is critical. Like most bikes in its class, the HD Pan America does not have a full tubular frame under the motor to protect from impact, meaning investing in a well-engineered guard should be your top priority with this ADV bike.

Made of 4mm thick aluminum alloy, this engine guard is designed to give the maximum protection during hard hits on rocks, stumps, or bottoming out the bike off-road. The folded ridges give the aluminum material the best stability and rigidity while also keeping the most ground clearance possible for this big adventure tourer.

The Harley Pan America skid plate is mounted using attachment points on a stainless steel base plate. This thick baseplate is engineered to distribute the load of an impact around a larger area of the engine.

Two plastic sliders which are installed independently of the skid plate prevent mud and dirt buildup and protect the mounting bolt heads from impact. The plastic sliders are removable and replaceable, look great, and help the big bike slide over rocks and stumps when riding off road.

FULL TRANSCRIPT:

Hello and welcome to a Touratech product install video. My name is Iain and we’re going to be installing this Touratech Expedition Skid plate onto the Harley Davidson Pan America. This skid plate is the right skid plate to put onto your motorcycle. The factory skid plate that came on this bike is not the right skid plate.

This install has a lot of little pieces involved in it, but Touratech has some really good detailed instructions available on the website. So first and foremost, get onto the Touratech product page, download and print out the instructions for that. Once we have the instructions, we’re going to break down this installation into steps and get to work.

‘So let’s grab the tools, let’s grab the instructions and see where it takes us. Before we start putting the skid plate on the motorcycle, there’s some prep work that we have to do. Obviously, you’re going to have to remove the factory skid plate from the motorcycle. Once you’ve done that, we start by installing these cage nuts into the reinforcement plate that goes between the skid plate and the oil pan of the engine. So if you lay the reinforcement piece out as you see it here, these clip nuts get installed from the underside coming up just like this.

Once you have the four cage nuts installed in this piece, set it aside and grab the other stainless steel bracket. So this is the other stainless steel mounting bracket. This goes in front of the engine to support the front side of the skid plate, and this has two cage nuts that get installed and they come from the front side like this. Now that all of the cage nuts are installed, we’re going to grab the plastic sliders for the bottom of the skid plate and all the hardware that goes along with that.

they hide all of the hardware underneath the skid plate so it doesn’t get damaged and packed up with dirt. And also they create a more slippery sliding surface on the underside to allow this low motorcycle to slide over obstacles a little bit more easily.

 So you will have these two main sliders, and then you’ll have six of these counter sunk course thread screws, and then six of these plastic shouldered spacers here. The way you install these is by putting the counters sunk screw through the plastic shouldered spacer, and then you install them along the rail. The position is going to be exactly the same on both rails. So you have one all the way in the first hole, one all the way in the back hole, and then one in the fourth hole up, one, two, three, four right there.

These screws use a Torx T 20 driver like this to install down into the slider. I find it much easier to install these if I’m using a power tool to turn this wrench. When you’re installing these spacers, you don’t want them to be locked down completely tight. You want to have just a little bit of up and down play, and the spacer is free enough that it can spin on the bolt. This’ll make installing them onto the skid plate a lot easier down the road.

All right, these two sliders are now prepped. They’ve got the fasteners installed in the right place, and they’re all just loose enough to be able to spin and move around a little bit. All right, we are now under the motorcycle and we’re going to install the main reinforcement plate, this big guy there here. You’re going to position it so that the clip nuts are all on the top side of the plate here, and the cutout follows the exhaust pipe over here on this side right here, or the elongated side, excuse me, follows the exhaust pipe.

You’re going to use the four button head M-8 bolts, and all of these four spacers that are included in the kit. I highly recommend thread locker on the bolts at this point, as these do not need to be removed to service the motorcycle. You’re going to be installing these four bolts into the same mounting points that the factory skid plate was attached to. Now use your five millimeter Allen wrench to tighten down these four bolts.

Now we’re at the front of the engine here and we’re going to install the reinforcement piece that goes on the front of the engine case. It installs like this with the ears facing up and the cage nuts being on the inside of the bracket. So you’re going to use the two socket cap M-8 bolts, put some thread lock on and the washer and screw these ones in.

You’re only going to want to make these ones hand tight for right now, because the bracket does still need to be adjusted for position when we’re installing the skid plate. Put the same bolt in on the opposite side. Now it’s time to swing the skid plate up into place and get it bolted on. You’re going to use four of the M-6 by 20 millimeter long flan head bolts and two of the M-6 by 16 millimeter long flange head bolts.

The two shorter ones go on the farthest rear mounting holes of the skid plate. I like to start at the front of the skid plate first and just loosely install two of the 20 millimeter long bolts in the front positions. You’re going to use a Torx T 30 bit for all of these screws.

Once I have one of the bolts in at the front, I like to put one of the bolts in at the back, one of the shorter bolts. Now that I have two bolts holding the skid plate roughly in position, I can start threading in all the other bolts loosely. Now that I’ve got all six of the mounting bolts loosely in place, it’s the time to check to make sure you aren’t pinching any wires, especially here on the clutch lever side of the bike, and be doubly sure that you have the shorter of the bolts in the rear mounting positions.

Once you’ve confirmed all that is okay, start tightening the assembly down with the bottom bolts first. Then move to the front two bolts, and then you can tighten down these front cross bolts that hold the bracket at the front. Now that we’ve tightened down all of the mounting bolts on the skid plate, it’s time to tighten down these two front bracket bolts with your six millimeter Allen wrench.

The other side is exactly the same. The last step is to install the two plastic sliders underneath the skid plate by engaging the spacers in these cutout holes here, and then using the remaining M-6 by 20 millimeter Torx head bolts by screwing them in at the front here. If you’re having a hard time getting this piece to slide on, it’s because some of your brackets here, some of your little spacers are a little bit too tight. So go back and loosen these little bolts up, maybe a quarter turn and it’ll make it slide in there a lot more easily. Now you can torque down these two bolts using your Torx T 30 driver.

All right, we have completed the installation of this Touratech Expedition skid plate. It looks fantastic on the motorcycle. It offers about 10 times as much coverage as the factory unit, and it’s quick and easy to install or remove for service. So overall, great product, it’s going to perform awesome on this bike. If you want to learn more about any pieces we make for the Harley Davidson Pan America, please visit our website, touratech-usa.com. As always, don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel and thank you for watching.

Find our entire line of Harley-Davidson Pan America products here.

In this video we walk you through the installation of the Touratech Quick-Release Aluminum Headlight Guard for the Harley-Davidson Pan America. Protect your expensive Pan America headlight assembly from rocks, dirt and debris with a strong 2 mm laser-cut aluminum grid. The design accents the unique styling of the HD Pan America’s headlight. This quick-release headlight guard for Pan America removes instantly for easy access to clean dust or dirt off the headlight assembly to maximize light output.

• 2 mm laser-cut aluminum grid construction

• Quick-release mounts allow you to remove the guard to clean the light surface

• Critical protection for the expensive headlight assembly

• Precision crafted in Germany

FULL VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Hello and welcome to another Touratech product install video. My name is Iain and we are going to be installing the Touratech laser cut aluminum quick release headlight guard. This is a very important product if you’re going to be riding on gravel roads with your buddies and we highly recommend it. As always, go to the Touratech website and download the product instructions. The torque specs are listed there and there’s a lot of little fiddly pieces on this headlight guard. You want to make sure you get them assembled the right way. Let’s grab the instructions, grab our tools, and get to work.

 The first step to the install is to prep the headlight guard itself with the quick release components. You’re going to need all four of these male quick release pieces. You’ll need all four of these short M6 button head bolts, and you’ll need all four of the small M6 washers. You’ll also need an 11mm spanner wrench or a pair of pliers to grab these quick release pieces like that. And you’ll also need a 4mm Allen wrench to turn these bolts. You’ll find resistance when you start installing the bolts into these guys. The reason is they have a pinched thread in here to work as a mechanical thread lock, so you don’t need to put any lock tight on these at all.

 I like to orient the guards so that the bend is coming up. The Touratech logo is pointing away from me, that way I know that I’m installing these pieces on the inside of the headlight guard. You’re going to take the bolt, you’re going to put a washer on it, and you’re going to put it through the headlight guard from the front, like this. And then gently screw the quick release part down onto the bolt. Do that with all four of them and then we’ll tighten them up with the tools. Now I’ll take my 11mm wrench to hold the male quick release piece. And I’ll use a 4mm Allen to screw the bolt all the way down.

 Now that we have the headlight guard assembled, it’s time to assemble the opposing quick release pieces. You’ll need the two large stainless steel brackets and you’ll need the four female quick release pieces, these little rubber guys here. Grab the stainless steel brackets and hold them so that these corners are bent in. The quick release pieces here assemble from the outside in. The easiest way I find to install them is to push them in with my finger just a little bit and then use an Allen wrench to push them right down through the center until they snap in. Now it’s time to head over to the motorcycle.

 Okay, now we’re back at the front of the motorcycle. First step is to remove this fairing here. It’s a little nerve-racking, but all you got to do is just grab it, pull forward on the top and the bottom. Now that we have the front fairing removed, we’re going to take out the bolt here and use that to attach those brackets that we prepared. There’s a bolt on each side, but I recommend only removing one at a time. So install one bracket, put the bolt back in, go to the other one. To remove this bolt, you’re going to use your Torx T-30 wrench.

At this point in the install, there are a couple of different options that you can select based on what parts you’re installing at this time. The paper instructions do a great job of showing how the different spacers should be used based on what install options you’re using, but I’ll show you the way that I’m doing it on this bike right here. You’re going to grab the long flange head M6 bolt, and you’re going to grab one long spacer and one short spacer, as well as the bracket that fits appropriately on the side. It’s going to look like this when it’s installed. It’s got the quick release female parts bent in so that they come in toward the headlight. The other bracket is of course, mirror an image for the opposite side. Take the long bolt, put it through the bracket like this, and then put the small spacer on and the big spacer. Now you’re going to use the same Torx T-30 wrench to loosely thread the bolt in where you remove that factory bolt. Do not tighten this up all the way because we have to put a clamp up here first.

 Now you’re going to take one of the rubberized clamps, one of the small M5 flange head bolts, one of the small M5 washers and the M5 nut, and you’re going to put the clamp over the bar here and then run the nut through and have the washer and the nut ready to go. Now we’re going to leave it loosely installed like this and do the exact same thing, fitting it on the other side. We’re going to leave it loose so that we can adjust the position of these things when we have the quick release headlight guard snapped on before we tighten everything down. Okay, now we have the brackets loosely installed on both sides,. It’s time to grab the actual headlight guard piece and get it snapped in place to locate them properly. And then we can tighten down the clamps and the through bolts. The quick release guard just snaps right into these fittings. With the quick release guard in place, now I can tighten down these side clamps and make sure that they’re in the right spot.

 All right, now that I’ve used a 8mm socket and a Torx T-25 to tighten down the upper bolts on the clamps, and I’ve used the Torx T-30 to tighten up the bolts that go through the bottom, I can remove the headlight guard one more time. And now reinstall the factory fairing piece. Just be careful with this fairing piece when you’re installing it, you don’t want to scratch the paint on this thing. This factory piece installs with four rubber grots, two at the top, two at the bottom. The bottom ones can be hard to get lined up, but if you look in from the back here, it’s not too bad. You can see them and get them right into place. Make sure it’s firmly seated. Ready to go. Now for the finishing touch, we can install the headlight guard. Gosh, that looks good.

 All right, and that completes the installation of the Touratech quick release aluminum headlight guard on the Harley-Davidson Pan America. If you have any more questions about products we make for this motorcycle or any other adventure bike, please visit our website, Touratech-USA.com. Don’t forget to like and subscribe to our YouTube channel. And as always, thanks for watching.

See our Full line of Harley-Davidson Pan America Products Here

In this video, rider and BDR team member Michael Bielecki gives a great overview of installing the Touratech Suspension Extreme Shock for the Yamaha Tenere 700 from Colorado Moto Service.

It’s a great video to watch just to see the overall process involved in installing your shocks. Our friends at ADV Moto magazine channel has a more in-depth (step by step) installation video available when you’re ready to get out the tools. You can find it here. 

The Touratech Extreme Shock offers adjustable high-speed and low-speed compression damping, a remote fluid reservoir, high-flow fittings, adjustable rebound damping, floating piston superiority and low-friction seals which add up to a highly refined shock that can be tuned with precision to meet the riding style and handling characteristics you prefer. The Touratech Extreme Shock is over-built by design with heavy-duty materials, over-sized components, and 50% more spring pre-load adjustment than other shocks on the market.

The preload can be hydraulically adjusted by turning the knob with your hand. Touratech Suspension is the world’s first purpose-built shock absorber for long-distance touring with a fully-loaded motorcycle. Right out of the box, it has the strength, features and adjustments to go the distance on an adventure or touring bike carrying luggage. The Touratech Extreme Shock is the ultimate in suspension technology and the ideal choice for extended trips or off-road rides like a Backcountry Discovery Route.

For the rider who wants absolute control over suspension set-up and high performance, this is the product. If you want the best suspension on the planet for adventure touring with a fully-loaded T7, the Touratech Extreme is the top choice. Nothing else comes even close. 

Touratech USA

Converting your F850GS’s front end with a high-performance, closed cartridge fork kit from Touratech Suspension will wake up the front of your BMW and make a huge change in handling, stability, and performance in any of the on and off road conditions you find yourself riding.

Not just a change in spring rate, or a simple re-valve, this cartridge conversion completely transforms the front-end of your F850GS with all new damping characteristics that can’t be achieved with the stock F850GS or GSA forks.

The F850GS and GSA use a single fork leg to control both the compression and rebound damping, this reduces the weight of the forks to improve steering responsiveness both on and off pavement. The Touratech single sided cartridge kit replaces the stock internals with much more capable components to drastically improve the wheel control without adding unnecessary weight to the fork. Additional benefits of this design are a significant reduction in installation time and complexity as only a single fork leg needs to be removed from the motorcycle.

Gone are the days of non-adjustable stock front suspension. The Touratech kit is completely tunable with rebound, compression, and preload adjustments made from the top of the fork caps. No matter where your adventure takes you, you can be assured that our cartridge system is designed to go the distance and tackle any terrain you throw at it.

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Hello, I’m Ian with Touratech-USA and this is going to be your installation video for the Touratech Fork cartridge conversion that fits the BMW F850GS and F850GS Adventure. The installation is very similar between the two bikes. The only real difference is the oil height measurement, but we’ll cover that later in the installation. A lot of people don’t realize that all of the damping on the front forks of this bike is controlled in just the right side fork leg. And that makes the cartridge conversion installation a heck of a lot easier on this bike because you only have to disassemble one fork leg.

So I’m going to break this down, we’re going to go through the installation and you’re going to see just how easy it is to drastically improve the fork performance on these motorcycles. A lot of guys complain about brake dive and suspension bottoming with the stock setup. And this is a huge, huge upgrade that really addresses both of those issues.

So the first step is to jack up the bike so that the front wheel’s off the ground and then we’re going to remove the front. To remove the front wheel on this bike, loosen the two pinch bolts on the clutch lever side fork leg. Those use a Torx T-40 driver. Then loosen the axle nut, that uses a 12-millimeter Allen driver. Then you can loosen the other two pinch bolts on the throttle tube side fork leg. Then you just slide the axle out to the throttle side and drop the wheel out.

Now that we have the front wheel removed from the bike, it’s time to unbolt everything that’s connected to the throttle side fork leg. That’s going to be the lower fender, the brake caliper and the brake line bolts. The low fender is held onto the fork tube with three Torx T-30 bolts. The brake line junction block is bolted to the fork leg with a single Torx T-30 bolt. The brake caliper is held on with two Torx T-50 bolts.

All right, now that we have the wheel off and we have all of the things that were bolted to the fork leg unbolted. Before we remove the fork leg from the bike, we’re going to break loose the bolt that holds the stock cartridge in at the bottom of the fork leg. And after we loosen the top clamp, we’re going to loosen the fork cap a couple of turns. We are not going to completely remove either of those two things. We just want to break them loose while everything’s clamped on the motorcycle here.

The cartridge retaining bolt on the bottoms side of the fork leg uses a six-millimeter Allen wrench. The upper fork clamp uses a Torx T-40 bolt to tighten it up. Once we’ve loosened that you can use a large crescent wrench or a 31-millimeter socket to loosen the fork cap. Now that we have the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg broken loose and we’ve also broken loose the fork cap at the top of the fork, it’s time to loosen the lower fork clamp using two Torx T-40 bolts and then slide the fork down out of the clamps.

When both of the fork clamps are loose, just a gentle twisting and downward pressure will bring the forks slowly out of the clamps. All right, we’ve got the fork leg out of the bike. Now’s a great time to clean off any dirt from this fork leg to make sure we keep it nice and clean while we’re working on the insides. Okay, so I’ve got the fork leg out of the bike. Everything’s nice and clean ready to work on. I’ve grabbed an oil pan right here and I’ve loosened the fork cap enough when it was on the bike that I should be able to just spin this off by hand. And I’m going to turn the fork upside down and start draining the oil into the pan.

Okay, you saw in the video there that when I tipped the fork upside down, all of the cartridge and all the guts and everything came right out of it. Now, I didn’t expect that to happen because that’s not normally how these things come apart. I did a little bit of digging into it here while I was cleaning everything up and I found out what happened. So this is the bolt that goes in the bottom of the fork tube right here. And there was some sealant on it from the factory that had kind of glued the bolt head in place in the bottom of the fork.

And so when I loosened the fork cap at the top, it actually spun the entire cartridge assembly around this bolt. And then when I tipped it upside down, everything came apart. The spring came off, the spacer and everything. So yours probably won’t come apart like that, but if it does just make sure there aren’t any pieces left inside the fork. Make sure the bolt comes out and the threads are clean on it and you’re good to keep going forward with the installation.

Normally, what would happen is you’d have to remove the fork cap from the top of the damping cartridge like this. That’s done by putting the crescent wrench on the top here and a small spanner on this locknut underneath, and just turning them loose and then taking the fork cap off. At that point, then you can take the spring and the spacer all out. Then you would loosen this bolt on the bottom of the fork and slide it out of the fork leg. Mine just decided to come apart quickly and give me a shortcut that ended up taking me a longer time because it scared me.

So at this point, we’re good to continue on with the installation, however. So you’re going to need the bolt that comes out the bottom of the fork leg and the copper washer on it. You’re going to reuse all of this, so set that aside. The fork leg itself, of course we’re going to reuse, but all of the stuff from the cartridge, the spring, the stock cartridge, the spacers, the fork cap, everything else, you can just set that aside. I recommend laying out a piece of cardboard and just putting on there because it’s going to be oily and dirty and gross.

Make sure you leave your fork leg inverted for a few minutes to let all the extra oil and everything drain out. And if the oil’s especially dirty, maybe give it a good spray out with some brake cleaner to make sure you get all the particulate out of there. It’s not critical because our system is a closed cartridge. So all the damping oil is contained inside the cartridge, but it’ll just keep the oil in the fork that’s lubricating the slider bushings clean a lot longer if there’s not a bunch of garbage in there right from the get go.

Now we have to remove the fork cap from the Touratech cartridge. In order to do that, you’re going to need a 15-millimeter slim wrench. That’s five or six millimeters thick at the head and a 22-millimeter wrench to grab the preload adjuster knob on the top. If you only have SAE wrenches, that’s a 5/8s and a 7/8s. So first thing I like to do is slide the 15-millimeter wrench into the locknut at the top of the fork cartridge. To do that, you have to push down on the ring to expose the nut and then slide the wrench in.

Once you have the wrench in, take your 22-millimeter and put it at the top on the preload adjuster knob and then loosen the preload adjuster knob on the top. Once you’ve broken it loose, you can just spin it off by hand. I also like to remove the damping adjuster rod just keeping it out of the way. Put it somewhere safe so it doesn’t get dropped or damaged, that way it won’t fall out if you turn anything upside down.

Now you can push down on the spring and remove your 15-millimeter wrench. Grab the two spacers and the spring itself, and slide it off the top of the cartridge. At this point, another good practice is to turn the locknut clockwise all the way until it bottoms out on the threads. That way you know it’s always in the right position where it needs to start when you’re reinstalling the fork cap. Now that we’ve removed the fork cap from the Touratech cartridge, done on all the disassembly with the different pieces and screwed this nut all the way down, it’s time to put the fork cartridge into the factory fork leg. And then fasten it from the bottom using the original bolt and copper crush washer.

I torqued this bolt at the bottom up to about 15 foot lbs. Now that the fork cartridge is installed in the fork leg and we’ve tightened up that bolt at the bottom, grab the 15 weight fork oil that comes with the cartridge conversion. And you’re going to fill this fork all the way up until it covers the holes in the top of the slider here. And then we’re just going to work the fork up and down a whole bunch of times like this to bleed out any air bubbles.

It’s important not to extend the fork further than about the stock travel because if you bring it really far up, you’ll expose the sharp holes up at the top of the lower slider and you could damage the fork seals. Once the fork leg moves through its full travel very smoothly and you’d don’t see any more bubbles coming up in the fluid, that means that you’ve got the fork bled properly. Now we’re going to grab a syringe and a piece of hose, and we’re going to set the air gap at the top of the fork.

Now that the fork has been filled with oil and we’ve bled out all the air bubbles, it’s time to set the air gap at the top of the fork. The easiest way to do at is to use a syringe and a piece of hose, and draw a line at the hose where you want the air gap to be set. The F850GS and GS Adventure actually use the same range. We recommend a 65-millimeter air gap for all around riding and a 60-millimeter air gap for more off-road-specific riding.

So the way to do that is you actually compress the fork cartridge all the way down into the fork so it’s displacing all of the oil that it will be displacing. And then you line up your mark at the top of the fork leg and then suck out the oil until it comes to the height that you’ve drawn your mark at. This is something that’s a lot easier with a second set of hands, but we’ll see how we get along here.

The air gap is now set properly in this fork so it’s time to reassemble the spring, the damping adjuster rod and the fork cap and then we’re going to close up the fork.

Don’t forget to reinstall the damping adjuster rod before you put the fork cap on. Before you install the fork cap, make sure that the locknut on the cartridge rod is screwed all the way down until it bottom out. Then you can screw the fork cap down all the way until it stops. And then you’ll tighten up the cartridge rod locknut until it hits the bottom of the fork cap. Once you’ve tightened the locknut between the fork cap and the cartridge rod, you can slide up the black portion of the fork body and screw the fork cap down into it.

You won’t be able to get the fork cap all the way tight until we have it back into the clamps on the motorcycle. Now is the time to reset the damping adjuster. Turn it clockwise gently until it hits the stop and then turn it out 10 clicks to get back to the factory default setting. The cartridge kit is now installed in this fork leg, so it’s time to reassemble the forks at the front of the motorcycle. Twist the fork leg while applying gentle upward pressure to slide it up through the clamps.

Once you have the forks slid up into the triple clamps to the appropriate height, tighten one of the lower fork clamp bolts to hold the fork in place. While we tighten down the fork cap. Use the provided pin wrench from the cartridge kit to tighten the fork cap. It doesn’t need to be really tight, just enough to make sure that the fork cap stops spinning and is locked down against the top of the fork tube. Once the fork cap is tightened, loosen that lower triple clamp bolt and then rotate the fork to make sure that the writing on the fork cap is facing the correct direction, and confirm that the fork height hasn’t changed while you were doing this process.

Now that I’m done adjusting the height and the orientation of the fork here, it’s time to tighten down all of the fork triple clamp bolts. The Torx spec on these guys is 19 Newton meters. That’s about 14 foot lbs and there’s two bolts on the bottom so you have to make sure that you tighten them alternating so they both come down to the final torque, and there’s a single bolt on the top clamp.

The fork is now installed and the upper and lower triple clamps are properly tightened, now it’s time to install the brake caliper, the lower fender and the clamp for the brake line. Don’t worry if the bottom of the four tube isn’t lined up properly. You can rotate this thing freely now that everything’s installed. The brake caliper bolts get tightened to 38 Newton meters, which is about 28 foot lbs. The small M6 bolts for the lower fender get tightened to three Newton meters, which is like two and a half foot lbs. I like to install red Threadlocker on all of these bolts here because these aren’t things I want coming loose later.

Now we can reinstall the front wheel and lower the bike back down. When reinstalling the front wheel on the F850GS, you tighten the axle nut to 50 Newton meters, which is about 37 foot lbs. And then you tighten down the pinch bolts on both sides to 19 Newton meters, which is about 14 foot lbs. Be sure that you alternate back and forth between both of the pinch bolts so that they both come down to an even torque.

This cartridge installation is now complete. If you want to learn more about products we make for your bike, please visit our website touratech-usa.com. And if you like this video and you want to see more like it, don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel.

Protect your KTM’s vulnerable ABS sensor from rock and debris damage with this simple, easy to install guard from Touratech. The rear ABS sensor is a vital part of your KTM’s braking system. If it is damaged during a trip, repair or replacement is costly and time-consuming. Save yourself time, money and heartache with this small, but effective guard.

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Hey guys, Ian here with Touratech USA, and this is just a quick introduction and installation video for the Touratech Rear ABS Sensor Guard that fits on the KTM 790, 890, 390 and a bunch of the other KTM models. This is a really small part that can absolutely make or break a ride. The rear wheel speed sensor is what your bike uses to track the speed of the rear wheel, but it uses that for traction control, it uses it for antilock brakes, and it uses it for a lot of the ride modes. If that sensor becomes damaged, you’re going to have a really bummer of a ride because you’ve got this nice electronic motorcycle and none of the electronics are going to work on it. So this is a quick and easy part that installs to cover that sensor and protect it from hits, from sticks or stones, or crash damage along the way.

So I’m going to get the camera set down here and we’ll get to the installation. So this is the abs sensor in question. You can see it’s got a wire that’s exposed and then the sensor itself here is just hard plastic. And what we’re going to do is install this protector right here that covers up that hard plastic so that it won’t get hit if you crash the bike or ride it through a bunch of sticks or rocks.

You’re going to need two tools to do this installation. The first one is a Torx T30 wrench. You’re going to use that to remove the bolt that holds the abs sensor guard in place. Now that you have that bolt out of the way, you’re going to take the abs sensor guard and you’re going to orient it like this. So the bolt hole is in the back and then the cutout in the top is where the wire comes up. Grab the bolt for it, put a little bit of blue thread locker on it, insert it through the part, and then take the spacer that comes with it, put the spacer over the bolt, and then put the bolt in the hole.

Now we’re going to use a four millimeter Allen drive tool to tighten this bolt up. It does not have to be very tight at all. So be very careful because that threads into your caliber holder bracket and you don’t want to strip that out.

Before I put the final tension on it, I like to just clock this bracket so that the wire has plenty of room. It’s not going to rub on anything.

Now I’m just going to give it a quick little bit here and tighten it up. Perfect. That installation is done.

All right. This is what the abs sensor guard looks like once it’s installed. It’s a nice looking piece on the bike. It’s made out of stainless steel and it’ll do a great job protecting that rear wheel speed sensor, no matter what kind of adventures we get ourselves into. If you want to see more products we make for your motorcycle, please visit our website Touratech-usa.com. And if you’d like to see more videos like this, don’t forget to subscribe to our channel.

KTM Motorcycle Parts

This GPS bracket bar from Touratech gives you a solid attachment point on your BMW F850GS / ADV or F750GS for any one of our locking GPS mounts. Gone are the days of trying to read shaky GPS screens or dealing with broken plastic pieces.

Made of stainless steel and anodized aluminum, this handlebar mounting adapter is built to go the distance. The GPS mount adapter provides a sturdy 12mm (1/2 inch) diameter mounting bar that is intended for mounting any of our locking GPS mounts.

It can also be used for roadbook holders or any other device that uses a 1/2″ clamp. This mount will require longer bolts if you plan on installing it along with handlebar risers. If you have 20mm risers, please order part 082-5411. For 35mm risers, please order part # 082-5412.

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Hello, Ian here with Touratech-USA. This is going to be a quick introduction and installation video of the Touratech GPS Bracket Adapter that fits on the BMW F 850 GS, F 850 GS Adventure and F 750 GS. This is a part that’s designed specifically to allow you to mount one of our Touratech locking mounts or a cell phone holder or really anything that you can adapt to this 12 millimeter crossbar. It’s going to put it on the motorcycle above the instruments to get it closer into your line of sight while you’re riding.

It creates kind of an unsafe situation if you have to constantly look down at your handle bars to take a look at your GPS, find the way that you’re trying to ride, et cetera. This is a part that’s made specifically for these bikes specifically for this purpose. I’m going to explain how to install it here on our F 850 GS, so let’s get to the bike and get to work.

The first step is to go onto the website and actually download the instructions for this piece. There are enough small pieces in this that I think it really helps to get all the things assembled correctly. What I’ve done here is I’ve preassembled the actual bracket itself, and this is made up of four different pieces. The bottom piece here is one piece. Then you’ve got these two arms here are two separate pieces, and then you have the crossbar at the top, which is its own fourth piece.

The way you do that is you start by assembling the crossbar at the top. You use two of the shorter button head bolts. These ones are 12 millimeters long, put thread locker on both of these, and then screw this together so that the arms bend in toward the crossbar. Then, once you have that assembled loosely, then you put the arms onto the base piece here. All four of these bolts are the same. They are button head 14 millimeter, and you use two washers with each one, one washer on the outside, one washer on the inside, and then a Nyloc nut here on the inside.

With this bracket, you’ll see I have the bend facing toward me right here, and you want the arm brackets to be bent away from you when this bottom piece is bent toward you. This is one of the things that the instructions do a really good job of depicting. Again, please print out the instructions, have them with you when you’re assembling this so you only have to do it once. These bolts use a four millimeter Allen wrench to tighten them. This here uses a 10 millimeter spanner wrench. Now that we’ve got this piece assembled, we’re going to remove the windscreen from the motorcycle. On our bike, we have the Touratech Tall Touring Windscreen, and this uses Torx T-25 fasteners, four of them.

Now that we have the windscreen removed, we have to take off this cover right here. It’s held on with two push pin body clips. I’ve already opened this one up. The way that you open these guys is to actually pry the head away. What that does is it allows this piece to collapse and then you can pull it right out. The correct tool to do this is a small pry bar for doing body clips. If you don’t have one of those, you can do it with a screwdriver. Don’t have to worry too much about putting marks on this, because we are not going to be reusing this piece.

With this cover out of the way, now we can remove the four T-30 bolts that hold the whole windscreen mount in place. This is as far as you’re going to have to disassemble the bike at this point. If you are going to be running power wires up to your GPS, I highly recommend doing it right now. You’ve got good access here above the headlight to run wires up the backside and then you can snake them up the arms of this GPS mount. We’re not going to do that on this bike because we swap GPSes around a lot, so we have a power cable up on the handlebars.

Our next step is to take the windscreen bracket that we just removed and the Touratech GPS bracket here and put it on the backside and just run the four bolts through it. These bolts aren’t holding anything in place. It’s just going to get sandwiched here against the motorcycle, so we’ll put that in right now.

Now we have this part securely mounted, we’ve got the windscreen bracket bolted back on, before we throw the windscreen on this bike, I highly recommend taking this chance to install the GPS bracket. It’s much, much easier to reach the bolts on the backside of this when the windscreen is not in place. I’m going to mount the GPS bracket on here and then sit on the motorcycle. When I have access to these four bolts here, I’m going to make sure that I adjust the height and I’m happy with where it’s positioned before I throw the windscreen back on.

My personal recommendation on mounting position here is to get the GPS mount as low as possible without blocking any of the warning lights on the instrument cluster. For this bike here, for this F 850 and me personally at my height, I found that I’m just a little bit below the halfway height, so right in the middle and then down just a hair. That’s where I like it personally. Your mileage may vary, find what works best for you. Now that the mounting position is finalized, the GPS locking mount is in place, and the windscreen bracket is bolted back on securely, it’s time to remount the windscreen on the motorcycle and we’ll be all done.

All right, the installation is finished and here’s a nice rider’s eye view of what the cockpit now looks like. You can see we’ve got that GPS locking mount right above the instrument cluster in the center. It’s easy to look at without taking your eyes off the road.

Thanks for watching this video. If you want to see more parts we make for your motorcycle, please visit touratech-usa.com. If you like this video and you want to see more like it, don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel.