Why does the women’s gear come with the L1 and the men’s don’t?  Well, I asked that question to a Klim rep while at the Touratech Dirt Daze in Haverhill, NH.  The rep told me what they found in the market research is women want the lighter gear.  L1 being lighter because it is half as thick and with that, it’s half the amount of material that protects you.  I asked if the women are being educated on what it means to have the lighter gear with half the level of protection and are they aware they are sacrificing safety?

Crickets…  Of course, without education, most would choose lighter over heavier, but at what cost?

Honestly, once the gear is on, you really don’t feel that difference significantly enough to choose the lighter gear and less protection.

When you tell women the level of protection is half as much AND women are more susceptible to breaking bones than men because after the age of 29, women lose 1% of their bone density and when they hit menopause, it goes up to 2%, do you think they would still choose the lighter, less protective gear?  I don’t think so.  And if they did, then that would be an informed decision and completely up to them.  Instead, what I’m finding, because I have been on a mission to get answers, is that women don’t realize that they don’t have the protection that they thought they had because they bought a high, quality suit.  You know the saying, you don’t know what you don’t know.  Well, unless you dig in and research things or you take more training classes and learn more about the sport, you don’t know important details.  In this case, you don’t know that even though you spent good money on high-quality gear you think will protect you, that the gear really won’t as much as you think.  Then, one day, you end up finding out the hard way while sitting in the hospital bed waiting for x-rays.

Something else to know about your riding suit, like the Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) layer in your helmet; armor breaks down and degrades over time, so a good rule of thumb is to replace it every five years just like you would do with your helmet. Also, non-CE-certified stock armor is often made of inexpensive materials, like stiff foam and lacks ventilation holes and will not give you the level of protection that the CE rated armor will.  Whether your suit is Klim or some other brand, do some research and make sure you are getting the level of protection that is acceptable to you.

Buying quality gear can be challenging, especially for women in this sport.  Get educated, so you can make informed decisions that will help with your overall experience in this amazing sport.  With fall in the air, you will see me in my new Klim suit with the upgraded armor of L2.  I feel good about the level of protection now.

ADV Jackets/Pants

Since most ADV gear is made from textile and waterproof material like Gore-Tex, these tips will focus on textile-based material and not leather.

Starting with your jacket and pants, remove any armor or removable inner liners. Regarding the latter, for those who do a tremendous amount of sweating, inner liners are easy to remove and wash; we recommend at least once a month or more – just think of an inner liner as an extension of your base layers, which we hope you wash often.

Next, make sure all pockets are empty, and zip them up. Have a spray bottle handy with a diluted detergent; vinegar diluted with water can also do the trick. Spray areas that have heavy dirt or bug buildup, and use a brush to clean the surface.

You can either hand wash the entire jacket or pant, or find a laundromat with a front-loading washer. This will be the safest option on the more delicate materials used throughout construction, especially those on the inside of your adventure motorcycle apparel. Use the gentlest cycle available, a small amount of detergent or apparel-forward detergent, and allow the gear to air dry.

For those with Gore-Tex, the fabric maker itself recommended to tumble dry the apparel in a dryer, which helps reactivate the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) treatment on the outer fabric. This is crucial for Gore-Tex to function correctly. We also do a quick tumble dry in the middle of the riding season to keep the riding dry. You can also iron it if a dryer is not available (explained in Gore-Tex link above).

Once all is dry, replace the armor and hang it in the closet; you’re now set for another season of riding without the stink.

ADV Helmets

Next is your helmet. This is simple considering most new ADV helmets arrive with a fully-removable liner. Gut the helmet, and hand wash the interior pieces. Most are safe for a light-cycle wash in the washing machine, but we still recommend hand washing due to the delicate stitching used throughout. We also recommend air drying.

Make sure there are no bugs/dirt caught in the interior shell or vents, and give the outside a good cleaning. As for the visor, clean it with a visor-specific cleaner, making sure to use a microfiber cloth free of dust or anything that can scratch your visor. And of course, make sure all interior pieces are completely dry before replacing them in your lid.

ADV Gloves

Gloves actually take the most abuse of riding apparel in regards to retaining sweat and oils. There are many simple preventive measures throughout the year that can keep your motorcycle gloves fresh. Basically, let them air out after any ride by not storing them in a closed container, helmet, tank bag or panniers. Letting them dry allows less interior grime to build up, but they still need a washing once a year.

Motorcycle gloves require a hand washing, also. This goes for any type of glove, from leather to Gore-Tex. First, soak them in water to get particles loose. On the outside, use a brush on areas with heavy dirt or bug buildup. Soak them in a mild soap and water mix to clean the inside, and use your hands to rub things together and rid all the oil/sweat build up. Once you’re satisfied, thoroughly rinse them out under cold water, and get rid of excess water by squeezing at the fingertips and working your way to the cuff. Do not wring or twist; this can cause the interior of the glove to become loose from the shell, or stitches/protection elements to detach.

Next, make sure your hands are clean and put the gloves on while they are still damp. This will allow them to dry to the shape of your hand, helping with any shape problems when you get back on the bike. Allow them to fully air dry before storing. Leather gloves can be treated with a leather protectant, and Gore-Tex gloves should be lightly tumble dried to reactivate the DWR.

ADV Motorcycle Boots

For boots, start with a hose and wash off the outside dirt and grime. Let water soak and naturally help break down some of the tougher dirt buildup. Use a brush on the outside for the heaviest of deposits – and don’t forget the soles.

Next, get a tub or large-enough container (Zega Pro pannier works!) and submerge them into a light, warm mixture of soap and water. If the boots have removable inner booties, take those out and hand wash them. Use your hands to massage the inside of the boots while they are in the cleaning mixture, breaking up any tough materials. Next, use a hose with low pressure and totally rinse the boots out. Allow to air dry outside. If you have Gore-Tex boots, and want to reactivate the DWR, an iron is your best bet.

That’s it. Now that your gear is clean and completely dry, the best way to store your jacket and pants is hanging them in a closet. We keep helmets (covered in typical supplied bag), gloves and boots in open air such as a shelf in the closet or the floor. Also, a trick to keeping it all fresh throughout the down period is as simple as putting dryer sheets inside each garment.