790 Adventure – Touratech-USA

Stainless-Steel RallyForm Skid Plate – KTM 790 Adventure/R

Matt Lewis — Mon, 02 Nov 2020 19:26:12 +0000

Shield your KTM 790 with next-level armor by installing the stainless-steel RallyeForm Skidplate. The engineers at Touratech have developed the ultimate in protection with this ultra-strong stainless-steel skid plate. Protection is extended upward from the stainless-steel base skid plate with integrated 3mm aluminum guards to protect the low-slung fuel tanks. The stainless-steel lower portion is designed to give the maximum protection during hard hits on rocks, stumps, or bottoming out the bike off-road. If the ultimate in protection is what you seek for your KTM 790, look no further.

The overall design fits the KTM 790 like a glove to maximize protection while keeping the bike streamlined and agile. There are two color combinations available: silver base with either silver or black tank guards. Unlike other products on the market, the RallyeForm skid plate can be combined with Touratech engine and fairing crash bars for complete protection of your 790. The KTM 790 is one of the most athletic twin-cylinder motorcycles in the ADV class and it entices riders to explore off the beaten path. The stainless-steel Rallye Form skid plate gives your KTM 790 the best protection on the market, so you can explore rugged terrain with confidence.

When the going gets gnarly, stainless-steel is the ultimate shield for your KTM 790!

Get your Skid Plate and all other KTM 790 Adventure/R parts here!

POV Skid Plate Install: KTM 790 Adventure R

Matt Lewis — Thu, 28 May 2020 16:41:06 +0000

In this video, get a Point of View (POV) perspective of the installation of the RallyeForm Skid Plate for the KTM 790 Adventure R.

We’ve created the best protection for your KTM 790 Adventure & R with the all new RallyeForm Skidplate featuring integrated aluminum tank guards. One of the reasons the KTM 790 handles so well is the low-slung fuel tanks that keep the center of gravity low. They do however, present a vulnerability to impacts from the ground if not protected.

Here is the Transcript:

Hello, Iain here, and we’re going to do things a little bit different today. I’m at home in my own garage and I’m going to shoot an install video of the RallyeForm Skid Plate onto our brand new KTM 790 Adventure R. The skid plate comes in a bunch of different colors. I’m just going to be installing silver on silver and you’ll probably see my dog running around in the middle of this video at some point. So let’s get to it.

So first you got to take the stock skid plate off, it’s real easy. Hi dog. It’s really easy if you haven’t done it before. It’s held on with six bolts, one, two, three, four up front and then underneath two bolts at the bottom, right there, right there. You can use a Torx T30 or an eight millimeter wrench. Good boy, yeah we took it off.

Once the stock skid plate is out of the way, I assemble the RallyeForm plate. So it comes in two separate pieces. You’ve got the main center section and then you have these two tank protectors. Each tank protector is held on with four bolts, one, two, three, four. Four on the other side. They’ve got an eight millimeter nut on the inside and a Torx T25 head on the outside. These eight bolts are easy to find in the hardware pack because they are preassembled with red Loctite. They are not planning on you taking these guys on and off. You can just build it once and leave it on there. One thing to note is the M8 sized hole right here. I’m leaving this open on our bike because we are going to install Touratech crash bars because we had them on the bike already and if you’re not installing Touratech crash bars, you can install the Button Head M8 Bolt and a couple of big washers that are included in the kit. Once you have the skid plate built up, just set it aside and we’ll move on to the next step.

Now is a good time before we forget to install the little rubber pad here. This is an adhesive pad that comes in the kit. All you got to do is peel off the backside of it and stick it on right there.

Now it’s time to assemble the rear support bracket. You’re going to use this piece of stainless steel here, this one little bushing and then these two … These are called J-nuts or clip nuts. Actually Touratech makes it pretty easy, so this bushing, you press in from the outside and it only fits in one side of the bracket. So this side that it fits in here is going to be the clutch lever side on the motorcycle and you take these two J-nuts and you just slide them over the material, here and here. I’m going to need two hands to do that. Congratulations, you did it. Make sure that you line up the J-nuts over the holes. That will make it a whole heck of a lot easier for you when you’re installing the skid plate.

Now we’re going to grab two of these little rubber isolators and head over to the bike. I like to put a drop of blue threadlocker on this piece of the thread because you aren’t actually going to tighten these into the engine case. You’re just going to screw them in by hand and that just keeps it from vibrating out.

So here we are under the bike. You can see I already installed one of these rubber isolators here and the other one just goes right there in that threaded hole under the oil pan. So these things you just thread in finger-tight. Just get them a little snug so they’re not going to vibrate out just sitting here.

All right, back to the bike again. We need to remove these bolts on the foot peg mount. The lowest one on both sides, just one on each side. We’re going to see if I can [inaudible 00:03:53] these things out of here on high mode. Full power. Oh DeWalt.

Time to install this piece underneath the motorcycle. So grab the two M10 millimeter bolts. You’ve got a 50 millimeter and a 60 millimeter I think. Put a washer on both of them. Put a little dab of red Loctite on both of them and grab the M10 Nyloc nut. If you feel like saving yourself a trip from the toolbox back to the bike, these use a 8 millimeter Allen Drive and this is a 17 millimeter nut.

Okay, under the bike again. So I’ve taken the 50 millimeter bolt, the short one, and I’ve threaded it in on the clutch lever side and make sure that you don’t have it standing proud of the bracket here. You still want it really loose and on the throttle side I’ve got the longer bolt and same thing here, I don’t have it coming out past the end of this little guy here. Because now we have to sandwich the bracket up into place. Make sure that you have it oriented so these J-clips are on the front side of the bracket and that bushing that we installed previously is on the clutch lever side of the motorcycle. Now what we’re going to do is put it up in there like that, give this side a little squish and it will hold itself up in place.

On this bike, this part is a tight fit right here so I don’t need any of the washers but if you look in the paper instructions, it will say this position here, you can optionally stack a few M10 washers there if you need to increase the tension but on this one it’s plenty tight and I haven’t even run the bolts in yet so now that this is in place, we can run these bolts in on both sides and then we’ll throw a nut and a washer on the inside of this one here.

All right, so I didn’t save you a trip back to the workbench. I forgot to tell you about this washer, but that’s okay because you needed to grab this washer and you can grab some anti-seize and put just a little bit on the inside of the bolt here on the threads. See … Oh god, I touched it. You want to use some anti-seize on there because these Nyloc nuts create a lot of friction and these are stainless steel bolts and you can get a little bit of thread going which we don’t like. We’ve got this bolt tightened down tight, factory spec, and now we’re going to throw a washer and a nut on it and we’re just tightening the nut up against this bracket here. We don’t have to turn this bolt anymore at all.

I know it’s kind of hard to see under here, but this is just to demonstrate the way that the clutch lever side of the bracket works. The bushing that you put in just floats over the bolt and Touratech just supplies a bolt that’s longer than the factory one so it protrudes out but not so long that it hits the catalytic converter. This side over here is doing the work to make sure the bracket doesn’t fall out of the bike and this one’s just making sure that the bracket can’t push up into the cat, so bracket’s done.

All right, great news. It’s time to actually put the skid plate onto the motorcycle. So you’re going to pull out six of these Torx headed M6 fasteners and these two M6 nuts. These have a little captive washer on them. Pretty cool. Then grab a skid plate and head over to the motorcycle.

Hey, we’re under the motorcycle again. So this skid plate is not quite as easy to just swing up onto the bike as the stock one is. The reason being is you have the little studs coming through in the middle of the skid plate here, so … It’s easy if you just sit down next to the motorcycle and pick the skid plate up with your feet, line up those pegs right there, and then come up front, make sure the front is lifted all the way up, and then just put the bolts in. Just start them real loose, so you’re going to use the Touratech bolts in the front positions, the nuts with the fancy washers, and then the middle section holes, these are your KTM bolts you’re going to reuse and then all the way at the back, Touratech bolts again.

So remember those washers or those nuts with the cool little washer on them? Yeah, check this out. They don’t fall into your deep well socket. You’re welcome.

Okay, so I got all the bolts started except for the KTM ones in the middle and I recommending tightening in the following order. So start by tightening the studs that go up here into those holes. Then move all the way to the back here and do the Touratech bolts. At that point the plate should be sucked right up to the bottom of the motorcycle and then you can throw the KTM bolts here and here. Those ones thread into the stock little rubber isolators and the bolts are super short so you can’t really use them to pull the plate up. Once you got those ones, all six tight, then you can move up front and tighten these four into place.

Okay, congratulations. You’ve got your skid plate installed. Not only is it super strong and has two extra support points that the stock plate doesn’t have, you’ve replaced those plastic tank guards with these nice aluminum ones, and it looks awesome. Remember you can change these out for black ones or you can change the center section out for black ones. We give you all the options on how to do that, so now if you’re still able to move around, get up off the floor and go for a ride.

All right, there’s an option for bonus points here. The North American model bikes have evaporative emission systems, and they have this little drain hose right here that originally just pokes through a hole in the plastic tank protector. The European model bikes do not have this evaporative emission system, so there’s no whole provided in the Touratech plate to mount this hose. You have two options. One, you can just get a slightly longer piece of hose and actually run the hose just out the bolt hole on this side or two, you can get a piece of tape, mark a hole, and actually drill a hole in the plate and this hose fitting will clip right in just like the stock one does. So that’s what I’m going to do on our bike.

If you imagine that this angle right here, you just split the difference between the two of them, I went up about an inch and a half. Make sure there’s nothing behind the skid plate back there, as long as I don’t go through too far, I’m not going to hit anything. Quarter inch drill bit for that hole. Does it perfect, you can just pop the hose right in there and she’s good as new. This bike’s ready to rip. I’m going to throw the Touratech crash bars on it and she’s ready to ride.

Touratech-USA

Installation: GPS Mounting Bracket – KTM 790 Adventure R

Matt Lewis — Wed, 25 Mar 2020 22:22:58 +0000

KTM 790 Adventure & Adventure R GPS Mounting Bracket

Mount your GPS securely above your KTM 790 Adventure’s gauges with this GPS mounting adapter from Touratech. With your navigation screen directly in the line of sight, you will no longer have to look down or to the side while you’re riding, greatly increasing safety while you travel.

Precision engineered, this adapter is manufactured in Germany by Touratech out of laser-cut stainless steel and aluminum. The bracket provides a 12mm (1/2″) crossbar right above your gauges, the perfect location for your GPS screen. The 12mm crossbar provides a robust mount for anyone of our Touratech locking mounts.

PRODUCT FEATURES

Provides 12mm (1/2″) cross bar for mounting GPS cradles
Compatible with any Touratech locking GPS mount
Locates GPS unit in line-of-sight, above gauges
Made of stainless steel and anodized aluminum
Fits KTM 790 Adventure & R
Installs above gauge cluster with supplied hardware
Easy installation
Made in Germany by Touratech

Touratech USA

Installation: Magura Hydraulic Clutch for the KTM 790/ADV

Matt Lewis — Thu, 12 Mar 2020 17:43:25 +0000

The Magura Hymec Clutch Kit will dramatically improve the clutch pull and feel on your KTM 790 Adventure / R or Duke. KTM has been known in the industry for having some of the best clutch feel for the last 20 years. Unfortunately on the 790 they decided to go with a cable clutch. If you’re tired of a hard clutch pull or inconsistent feel then this complete hydraulic kit from Magura is the answer to fix any of the problems with the stock cable-type clutch. The Magura Hymec clutch kit is an easy to install alternative to a mechanical clutch. This system replaces the clutch lever and cable with a small, lightweight hydraulic system for improved clutch control.

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Ian here from the Touratech showroom in downtown Seattle and today we’re going to be installing the Magura hydraulic clutch conversion on a KTM 790 Adventure R. This kit is unique in that it replaces the cable actuated clutch on this bike with a full drop-in hydraulic clutch system.

We’ve used kits like this in the past on the BMW F800 GS, and we were really happy with the way they worked. And when we get it on this 790, I’m expecting that compared to the cable clutch, it’ll have a little bit lighter pull, but a much smoother feel at the lever. With the cable clutch, you can sometimes feel a few little lumps as the cable is moving through its sheath, and with a hydraulic clutch, there won’t be any of that.

As far as life down the road is considered, the hydraulic clutch, you won’t have to worry about adjusting cable slack. You won’t have to worry about changing it out as it gets dirty or wears. All you need to do is refresh the fluid occasionally and it’s good as new.

Let’s open up the box and take a look inside. Inside the box you have the owner’s manual in a few different languages. You have the installation instructions. These are actually pretty detailed with color photos. You have the actual product itself, master cylinder, lever, hydraulic hose, slave cylinder, and these are the clutch cancel switch wires for cruise control or starting. These are heat shrink solder butt connectors. These are four washers used for setting the free play on the clutch, and this is a set of zip ties for securing the clutch hose to the frame.

To complete this installation, you’ll need a heat gun, some heat shrink tubing, tape, pliers, side cutters, Threadlocker, 17, 12, and 10-millimeter open-end wrenches, a ratcheting tool, some Torx bits and some Allen bits, as well as some sockets. With all that out of the way, let’s head over to the bike and get to work.

To install this hydraulic clutch kit, we’re going to need to remove the gas tank from the bike, so I’m going to start by taking the seat off and pulling off these crash bars. I’m not going to show you those steps, should be pretty straightforward. To give ourselves a little bit more room to work here, I’m also going to remove the clutch lever side handguard and I’m going to take the mirror off of the perch right here.

Now remove the two side panels. These aren’t held on with any fasteners, just two little press-in rubber grommets here and here, and then it slides forward. Do the same thing on the other side. Now remove the battery cover. It’s held in with two Torx T30 bolts on either side, one here and one here. Now remove the two upper side panels. These are each held on by five bolts. You’ve got one, two, three, four black bolts, and then you have five, right here, is the last one is a silver bolt. Once you have all the bolts out, there’s a little push right here, a little rubber grommet, and then the panel slides forward to come off the bike.

Now remove the lower tank cover from both sides of the bike. It’s held on with three screws. There’s two in the front here and one at the bottom. The bottom one, you need to hold a nut on the inside of the skid plate with a 10-millimeter wrench, and on the throttle hand side of the bike, there’s a drain hose for the evaporative emissions that just pops right out.

Just use your hand to pull off the trim ring around the gas cap to expose the two vent hoses that come into the top of the gas cap. Disconnect the two hoses from the top of the gas cap. Do them one at a time and put a piece of tape on the left hand hose. That way, you know which nipples to put them back on when the time comes.

Now that we got all the easy stuff out of the way, pulling the body work off, we’re going to go into a little bit finer detail about how to pull the tank off and get this clutch kit installed. We’re going to need to remove the high pressure fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail on the motorcycle. You do this by pulling down on the little green clip on our bike and then gently pulling the fuel line away from the fuel rail, which is mounted this way. Have a rag handy. There’s going to be a little bit of gas that comes out at this point.

So the green clip is now pulled down. This is what keeps the fuel line latched onto the fuel rail, so now we can gently wiggle it and pull the fuel line away from the rail. We need to close these crossover pipe valves on both sides of the gas tank, and then compress these little spring clips and pull this crossover fuel line off. Make sure that you’ve closed the valves on both sides of the tank before you pull this hose off or you’ll dump tons of gas on the ground. Have a rag handy when you pull the hose off, because it’s going to leak a little.

There’s one electrical connector to remove on the throttle side of the gas tank. On the clutch side of the gas tank, there’s one electrical connector to remove, and then you need to snip this zip tie that’s connecting the wire to the main fuel line. Now remove the four tank mounting bolts using your six-millimeter Allen drive tool.

At this point, the tank should be ready to lift off the motorcycle. Hopefully, you guys are smarter than me and you drain most of your gas out before you did this job. Now that you’ve got the tank lifted off, make sure you can find all four of these rubber bumpers, these tank mounts. The top two will most likely fall out when you lift the tank up, but the two for the lower mounts are probably still stuck in the tank. If you found all four of them, now you can move on to the next step.

To remove the clutch cable, first we have to loosen the adjuster all the way to make sure we have enough slack down at the bottom. You do that by loosening the adjuster nut, and then turning this clockwise to screw the adjuster all the way down into the clutch perch. Use a 12-millimeter spanner wrench to loosen these two nuts on the clutch cable to get enough slack to remove it from the arm here. Remove the end of the clutch cable from the actuation arm by pushing in on the clutch cable and just removing it from the cutout here. Remove this outside nut completely from the cable housing, and then slide the cable housing backward to allow the cable to pass out through this cutout in the bracket.

Now that the cable is free from this bracket, we’re going to move to the other side of the motorcycle and start removing the clutch cable from where it’s zip tied to the frame. To remove the clutch cable from the frame of the motorcycle, we are going to take out this one bolt here, three zip ties along the run here, and then one bolt up at the top. You’re going to use a Torx T30 to take out the two bolts, and then just a pair of side cutters to clip the zip ties.

Now that the two clamps and all the zip ties are removed, we can just pull the clutch cable free from the frame. Remove the two bolts, holding the clutch perch to the handlebar using a five-millimeter Allen. All that’s left is to snip these wires that come out of the clutch switch, and then we just need to pull everything free from the bike.

Congratulations if you made it this far. We are now reassembling the motorcycle with new parts, so in order to do that, you’re going to grab the complete Hymec clutch kit here and you’re going to remove the eight-millimeter head bolt, and then position this guy onto the handlebar with that one bolt. You can keep it loose, just tight enough that it’s not going to fall off the bar here while we’re working.

Now you’re just going to run the slave cylinder all the way down through the exact same path that the OEM clutch cable took. So grab the two clamps that you took off of the stock clutch cable and slip them over the hydraulic hose. And now just install the bolts really loosely in their two positions. Remember there’s one up here by the steering head, and then one down below by the rear shock. So grab two of the zip ties and this’ll help us finish up just the basic routing of this pressure hose. The two zip ties go right where the stock cable was connected, just here and here. Make sure you keep these zip ties very loose. You’re just looping them around the hose at this point just to keep it in line.

To adjust the free play on this hydraulic clutch kit, you have to use these spacers that go in between the slave cylinder and the actual clutch bracket. So to start off with, take two of the spacers, slide them over the arm all the way down until they bottom out, and then install the slave cylinder into the bracket the same way that the cable clutch did. Now you’re going to pull on this actuator arm and make sure it’s fully extended, and then bring the clutch release arm down and hook it in there just like you did with the stock cable.

Now we have to check the free play on the clutch slave cylinder. And the way you do that is give the clutch lever a few good pulls to make sure everything’s settled where it’s going to be, and then come down here and look at a spot on the shaft here. I like to mark it just with my fingernail, and then pull out on the adjuster arm, on the clutch arm, and then look at the distance that the arm moved where your thumbnail was. You want to be able to see about four to six millimeters of movement, and ours is exactly right with two spacers.

Now that our free play is set correctly, we want to just give this silver metal piece of the clutch actuation arm, give this a squeeze with a pair of pliers just to tighten that gap up so we know this arm’s never going to squeak out while we’re riding.

Now it’s time to turn the bars full lock, one side to the other, and make sure that the cable or the hose routing is correct and it’s not kinked or pinching anywhere. Once you’ve confirmed that the routing is correct, tighten down the zip ties and the clamps. The clutch switch is actually a really simple wiring circuit. It doesn’t matter which of the two wires you connect to the other, so long as the clutch side is connected to the bike side.

So all you got to do is just make sure that you have enough wiring that you can overlap the two ends by about an inch or two, and you want to strip back about a quarter inch of insulation from all of the conductors and make sure that you’ve cut back the protective sheath on both of these wires so that you’ve got room to work with. And take a piece of heat shrink tubing and slide it over one of the ends. You’re going to use this to cover up the connectors when you’re done.

And now take the included solder heat shrink connectors and just pick one of the wires. I’m going to go black to black, just to make things easy here. So slide it over the black wire on the clutch side, and then slide the black on the bike side into the same fitting. Make sure that the conductor wires intermesh with each other inside, and then line that up directly underneath the solder that’s in this connector right here.

Now when it’s all held together, we’re just going to use a heat gun to apply some heat to this. It’ll shrink up the heat shrink tubing and it’ll melt the solder all in one go. Now we’re just going to do the exact same thing on the other pair of wires. Just throw a zip tie around the clutch cable wires just to make sure it stays in place while you ride. The hydraulic clutch kit is now fitted on the motorcycle. It’s time to reassemble the bike.

First step is getting the gas tank back on the machine. Make sure that you have the two rubber isolators that go in the upper mount positions. Keep them handy because you’re going to need to fish them in there before the gas tank is set all the way down. Now’s the time to check and make sure that all four of the rubber isolators are in between the gas tank and the frame of the motorcycle. There’s two on the top and there’s one here and one on the opposite side. Yep. All good.

So ready for the top two bolts. I recommend installing a little bit of Threadlocker on these bolts. Make sure you have the aluminum spacer and the rubber bumper and the bolt itself. Drop them in like this and then you’ll have to slide the tank forward just a little to get the bolt holes to line up, and then tighten her up.

Now it’s time to reassemble the motorcycle. The gas tank has to be installed first, and make sure that you get the fuel connection at the fuel rail and be certain that that connector is pushed all the way in and the green clip is fully seated. Otherwise, you’ll have a leak there. Connect the crossover pipe underneath the tank. Don’t forget to open up both of those crossover valves after you’ve got the pipe in. There’s two electrical connectors, one on either side at the bottom of the tank, and then the two hoses up by the gas cap. Remember which one went on which side. On our bike, I marked the one on the left side with a piece of tape.

After that, you fit the lower tank protectors. Remember they’re held on with three bolts per side. Install the upper tank shrouds with five bolts per side. Install the battery cover that has two bolts on either side. Install the two tail pieces. Remember that those slide backwards and then have two grommets at the front that pop into place. Now, just put the seat on and don’t forget to put the clutch side hand guard back on. And we’re ready to make some adjustments.

So the bike’s totally reassembled. Everything’s ready to go. The last thing we need to do is just check to make sure we didn’t introduce any fuel leaks and make sure that the clutch disengages all the way. The way that you do that is have the bike running. Make sure you get the kickstand up, hold the clutch in, click it into gear, and then just make sure you can find neutral again with the engine running when you got the clutch lever pulled all the way into the bar.

If you want to learn more about parts we make for this motorcycle, visit our Touratech website touratech-usa.com. And don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel and click that notification bell to know when we release new videos just like this. Thanks and have a good ride.

Touratech USA

Installation: TOURATECH SKID PLATE REINFORCEMENT KIT for KTM 790 ADV R

Matt Lewis — Fri, 25 Oct 2019 16:25:03 +0000

The stock skid plate on the KTM 790 Adventure and Adventure R has great coverage but is made with thin metal that was never really meant to take a hard hit. Especially when bottoming out on large rocks, or crossing logs, the stock skid plate leaves your KTM 790’s motor vulnerable. This reinforcement kit from Touratech adds a secondary layer of 3mm thick stainless steel, rubber dampers, and stronger mounts that protect the bottom side of your engine from damage, without having to purchase another skid plate.

PRODUCT FEATURES:

• Installs between OEM KTM Skid plate and motor

• Fits KTM 790 Adventure and ADV R • Made of 3mm thick stainless steel

• Made in Germany by Touratech

• Only compatible with stock KTM 790 Skid Plate

See our complete line of Touratech parts for the KTM 790 Adventure R

Installation: Touratech Crash Bars – KTM 790 ADV/R

Matt Lewis — Tue, 15 Oct 2019 15:52:55 +0000

In this video Iain walks you through installation of the lower crash bars for the KTM 790 Adventure/R

The large tanks on the KTM 790 Adventure or Adventure R give this highly capable off-road adventure bike great range but are vulnerable to damage during hard drops. These rugged stainless steel crash bars from Touratech will protect your KTM 790 and ensure your ride continues no matter what the terrain.

PRODUCT FEATURES

Made of 25mm diameter stainless steel tubing
Protects lower part of fuel tank from damage
Fits KTM 790 Adventure and Adventure R
Made in Germany by Touratech
Available in electropolished stainless steel, and epoxy-coated black or orange finishes

Check out our full line of KTM 790 accessories here!

KTM 790 Adventure, BMW R1250GS & Honda Africa Twin in Europe

Matt Lewis — Wed, 05 Jun 2019 19:19:02 +0000

The crew in Europe takes the 3 hottest bikes in the Adventure universe on roads and trails and shares their POV. The KTM 790 Adventure, BMW R1250GS and Honda Africa Twin are setting new standards in motorcycle travel and this video provides some great onsite! Check out our full line of amazing accessories for all three of these bikes!